n 


\ 


MODEL  YACHTS  AND   MODEL 
YACHT   SAILING. 


BOOKS  OF  INSTRUCTION  AND  AMUSEMENT. 


THE    BOY'S     OWN     TOY    MAKER: 

A  Practical  Illustrated  Guide  to  the  useful  employment  of  Leisure  Hours. 
By  E.  LANDELS.     With  200  Cuts.     Ninth  Edition.     Price  2s.  6d. 


"  A  new  and  valuable  form  of  endless  amusement." — Nonconformist. 

"  We  recommend  it  to  all  who  have  children  to  be  instructed  and  amused." 

Economist. 


THE    GIRLS    OWN    TOY  MAKER 

AND    BOOK   OF    RECREATION. 

By  E.  and  A.  LANDELS.     With  200  Illustrations.     New  Edition.     The 
Eleventh  Thousand.     Just  ready.     Price  2s.  6d. 


"Contains  a  large  number  of  engravings,  and  gives  instruction,  with  many  exam- 
ples, how  to  make  Paper  Toys,  &c.,  &c. ,  in  which  young  people  especially  take 
interest. " — Leeds  Mercury. 

"  Within  the  past  few  years  great  advancement  has  been  made  in  the  educational 
system  it  is  meant  to  encourage,  and  it  is,  therefore,  all  the  more  likely  to  obtain  a 
still  wider  circulation." — Edinburgh  Daily  .Review. 

"  Capital  little  volume  .  .   .  will  be  found  a  rare  prize  for  families." — City  Press. 

"  We  can  easily  imagine  the  delight  with  which  a  family  of  children  would  welcome 
this  interesting  work." — Scholastic  World. 


THE    ILLUSTRATED 

PAPER    MODEL    MAKER; 

Containing  Twelve  Subjects  and  Practical  Diagrams  for  their 
Construction,  in  an  Envelope.     Price  23. 


GRIFFITH   &  FARRAN, 

WEST  CORNER  OF  ST.  PAUL'S  CHURCHYARD,  LONDON. 
E.  P.  DUTTON  &  CO.,  NEW  YORK. 


SAILS,  a  a  mainsail. 
b  b  topsail. 
cc  foresail. 
<t<tjib. 

(  a  mainmast. 
MASTS  [  *  topmast 
c  bowsprit. 
d  main  boom. 
egaff. 

/foresail  boom. 
g  jib  boom. 
h  bobstay. 

z  mainrigging  (port  or  left 
side). 


j  hull. 
k  false  keel. 
/  lead  keel. 
in  counter. 
»  sternpost. 
o  stem. 

p  self-acting  rudder,  only  used 
when  running. 


LATERAL  VIEW  OF  3-FT.  YACHT  (f  inch  to  the  foot). 
For  deck  outline  and  measurement  of  this  Model  "  Diana  "  Cutter,  see  diagram  8,  p,  19. 


MODEL    YACHTS 

AND    MODEL   YACHT    SAILING. 

HOW  TO  BUILD,  RIG,  AND  SAIL 
A     SELF-ACTING    MODEL     YACHT. 


BY 


JAMES  E.  WALTON,  V.M.Y.C. 


ILLUSTRATED    WITH    FIFTY-EIGHT    ENGRAVINGS. 


GRIFFITH   AND   FARRAN, 

SUCCESSORS   TO   NEWBERY  AND   HARRIS, 

WEST    CORNER   OF    ST.    PAUL'S    CHURCHYARD,    LONDON. 

E.  P.  BUTTON  AND  CO.,  NEW  YORK. 

MDCCCLXXX. 


\The  rights  of  Translation  and  of  Reproduction  are  reserved^ 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

PREFACE    .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .11 

INTRODUCTION .15 

CHAP.  I.  PRINCIPLES     OF     SELF-ACTING     MODEL     YACHT 

BUILDING 21 

,,  II.  How  TO  MAKE  THE  HULL  .  .  .  -31 
„  III.  How  TO  MAKE  DECK  FITTINGS,  RUDDER,  &c.  .  47 
„  IV.  How  TO  FIT  MASTS,  STANDING  AND  RUNNING 

GEAR,  &c .        -     5  7 

„      V.  How  TO  MAKE  THE  SAILS  AND  SET  THEM          .     73 

„    VI.   How  TO  SAIL  AND  STEER  A  MODEL  YACHT       .     85 

MATERIALS  FOR  MODEL  SHIPS  .         .         .         .         .         -97 

GLOSSARY •  100 

MODEL  YACHT  CONTESTS  ON  THE  SEA  ....  102 
TABLES  OF  MODEL  YACHT  REGATTAS  .  .  .  .103 
WATERS  IN  LONDON  FOR  MODEL  YACHT  SAILING  .  .104 


PREFACE. 

» 

THERE  are  not  many  open-air  amusements  which  afford 
more  genuine  enjoyment  to  old  and  young  than  Model 
Yacht  Sailing;  if  practised  in  a  properly  scientific 
manner  it  resembles  a  game  of  croquet,  in  which 
the  water  is  the  lawn,  the  wind  the  mallet,  and  the 
ships  the  balls  ;  and  the  most  skilful  yachtsman  is 
as  certain  of  winning  his  match  as  is  the  most  skilful 
croquet  player. 

Very  few  English  boys  can  be  found  who  have  not 
taken,  or  do  not  take  an  interest  in  model  ships,  and 
it  is  very  remarkable,  as  well  as  no  little  disgrace  to 
us  as  a  maritime  nation,  to  note  the  utterly  purpose- 
less way  in  which  nearly  all  boys  or  men  sail  their 
model  vessels;  whereas  with  the  requisite  knowledge, 
a  self-acting  model  yacht  is  as  much  under  the  control 
of  the  manager  as  if  he  were  actually  on  board : 
further  still,  matches  can  be  sailed  in  which  the 


1 2  Preface. 

results  are  as  certain  as  are  those  of  the  matches  of 
ordinary  yachts,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  tables  of 
actual  races  at  the  end  of  this  work  (see  p.  103). 

A  sailor  who  thoroughly  understands  the  manage- 
ment of  a  ship  or  boat,  when  he  is  on  board,  steers 
with  a  rudder,  and  reduces,  augments,  or  disposes  the 
sails  at  his  will,  would  find  this  knowledge  of  very 
secondary  importance  if  he  applied  it,  without  great 
modifications,  to  sail  a  model  yacht.  To  give  one 
instance  only,  model  yachts  require  no  fixed  rudder, 
in  fact,  a  fixed  rudder  is  such  an  incumbrance,  and  so 
great  a  bar  to  perfect  action,  that  it  must  be  dispensed 
with  altogether.  This  quite  upsets  the  old  adage  of  a 
"  ship  without  a  rudder,"  and  reverses  it ;  our  model 
ships  need  no  rudder — steer  better  without,  save  in 
one  way. 

A  rudder  is  used  at  times  on  model  yachts,  as  will 
be  shown  in  its  place,  but  it  must  be  removed  when 
it  has  done  its  work. 

The  sails  and  hulls  of  model  yachts  are  also  very  dif- 


Preface.  1 3 

ferent  to  those  of  full-sized  yachts.  They  are  constructed 
with  the  mew  to  being  self-acting,  and  as  a  model  yacht 
must  steer  itself,  this  result  can  only  be  obtained  by 
using  the  sails  both  for  propelling  and  steering. 

Model  yachts,  as  usually  made,  may  be  very  beautiful 
to  look  at,  but,  alas !  they  will  not  sail,  or  will  not  sail 
well,  they  are  not  self-acting  in  any  sense,  they  are 
generally  actual  reproductions  in  miniature  of  cele- 
brated large  yachts,  and  as  these  latter  are  sailed  and 
steered  by  men  on  board,  it  is  very  certain  their 
miniature  copies  will  not  sail  without  similar  guidance. 

I  have  made  these  remarks  to  show  that  model  self- 
acting  yachts  cannot  be  made  and  sailed  without  the 
requisite  knowledge  and  experience,  and  as  there  is  no 
book  to  be  got  which  gives  full  particulars  on  the 
subject,  it  is  believed  that  this,  which  contains 
the  result  of  many  years'  model  yacht  making  and 
sailing,  will  supply  an  almost  national  want,  and  enable 
any  ordinarily  intelligent  boy  to  construct,  rig,  and  sail 
a  model  yacht  with  perfect  success. 


1 4  Preface. 

As  a  proof  of  the  pains  that  have  been  taken  to 
ascertain  the  best  hull  and  rig  for  a  self-acting  yacht, 
I  may  say  that  five  yachts  have  been  made,  all  of  the 
same  length,  but  each  of  different  beam,  rig,  &c.,  com- 
mencing with  very  narrow  beam,  and  increasing  beam, 
&c.,  with  each  model,  till  the  best  proportion  between 
length  and  beam  became  known, — necessarily  with  each 
increase  of  beam  more  sail  could  be  carried,  and  also 
more  ballast  in  lead  keel  could  be  used, — and  in  order 
that  the  experiments  should  be  crucial  and  decisive,  a 
final  vessel  was  constructed  of  the  same  measurement  as 
the  best  of  those  before  mentioned,  and  their  sails  were 
made  interchangeable,  thus  deciding  beyond  doubt 
which  vessel  was  best,  after  many  trials  on  the  open 
sea  with  a  true  wind. 

It  is  doubtful  if  such  experiments  were  ever  made 
before  (tables  of  them  will  be  seen  at  p.  102),  and  the 
author,  therefore,  feels  assured  that  his  readers  may 
have  every  confidence  in  the  instruction  here  given. 


INTRODUCTION. 


THE  first  thing  necessary  for  non-nautical  yachtsmen 
is  to  know  the  names  of  the  different  sails,  parts  of  the 
vessel,  &c.,  &c.,  and  for  this  purpose  the  diagram 
forming  the  frontispiece  will  be  useful ;  a  glossary, 
also,  is  added  at  the  end  of  the  work. 

The  frontispiece  is  an  exact  outline  drawing  of  a 
model  self-acting  yacht,  of  3-feet  water-line,  and  39  in. 
over  all ;  the  diagram  is  drawn  in  the  proportion  of 
f  in.  to  the  foot,  and  if  any  reader  desires  to  make  a 
smaller  boat,  say  30  in.,  all  that  need  be  done  is  to 
make  everything  i  smaller,  and  for  a  2-ft.  boat  £ 
smaller ;  as  the  keel,  however,  would  have  to  be  cal- 
culated by  weight,  and  the  above  rule  would  not  apply, 
I  give  the  weight  in  Ibs. ;  a  3-ft.  boat  requires 


1 6  Introduction. 


20  Ibs.,   a  2-ft.-6-in.  boat  10  or  u  Ibs.,  and    a  24-in. 
boat  6  Ibs.  or  nearly. 

I  will  note  here  that  it  is  better  to  make  a  vessel 
scooped  out,  &c.,  from  the  solid  block,  than  to  build 
one  of  small  planks ;  i  st,  it  is  easier  (it  takes  a  good 
carpenter  to  make  one  of  planks),  it  can  be  altered 
outside  if  not  scooped  out  too  thin  at  first,  it  never 
leaks,  and  it  never  comes  to  pieces  ;  and,  lastly,  it  does 
not  take  half  the  time  to  repaint,  £c.,  &c. 


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CHAPTER   I. 


PRINCIPLES  OF  MODEL  YACHT  BUILDING. 


CHAPTER   I. 

PRINCIPLES    OF    MODEL  YACHT   BUILDING. 

IN  order  to  ascertain  the  best  lines,  i.  e.  shape,  for 
progression  through  the  water,  Nature  herself  may, 
without  hesitation,  be  taken  as  the  best  teacher,  and 
amongst  fast-moving  fishes  a  mackerel  is  one  of  the 
fastest  and  most  graceful. 

I  procured  a  mackerel,  carefully  measured  and  drew 
it  to  scale  (see  p.  17,  diagrams  i  and  2),  first  taking  the 
shape  back  upwards,  and  next  sideways,  and  in  harmony 
with  these  lines  all  the  vessels  mentioned  in  this  work 
are  constructed. 

On  looking  at  the  diagram  of  the  mackerel  it  is  at 
once  apparent  that  a  clean  run  is  more  important  than  a 
sharp  entrance,  for  the  drawing  shows  the  fish  to  be 
much  fuller  in  the  fore  than  in  the  after  part ;  bearing 
this  in  mind,  and  having  drawn  the '  mackerel  in 


24         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

divisions  of  inches,  I  took  the  forward  eleven  divisions 
as  a  model  for  the  deck  and  general  lines  of  my  vessels 
— first,  so  far  as  regards  "  going  through  the  water ;" 
secondly,  because  I  should  thus  get  "  the  widest  part 
or  beam  amidships"  and  as  near  the  centre  of  motion 
and  gravity  as  possible, 

With  these  ideas  in  my  mind  I  constructed  "  Sea- 
shell  "  (see  diagram  3,  p.  17),  with  the  actual  measure- 
ments there  stated  (as  is  the  case  on  all  the  drawings). 
I  rigged  her  as  a  schooner ;  thus — 


She  sailed  well  and  steadily,  and  could  be  made  to  go 
in  any  direction  in  a  light  breeze,  but  her  narrow  beam 


Principles  of  Model  Yacht  Building.  25 

and  lightness,  with  only  3  Ibs.  keel,  rendered  her  useless 
in  a  stiff  breeze,  except  when  she  was  running  away 
from  it. 

I  next  built  "  Mermaid  "  (see  diagram  4),  with  nearly 
2  in.  more  beam,  and  exactly  to  the  measurement  of  the 
mackerel  sideways,  simply  increasing  each  line  in 
proportion  as  the  ship  was  larger  than  the  fish  ;  all 
the  lines  of  the  hull  being  of  course  in  harmony  with 
the  increased  beam,  she  had  5  Ibs.  lead  keel,  and 
was  rigged  as  a  cutter  (see  "Diana"  for  cutter  rig, 
frontispiece),  schooner,  or  lugger  at  pleasure.  I  found 
she  beat  "  Seashell "  considerably  in  any  wind,  but 
especially  in  strong  winds,  sailing  under  any  of  the 
above-mentioned  sails. 

Learning  by  this  that  increased  beam  and  weight 
meant  more  power,  more  sail,  and  greater  speed,  I  then 
made  "  Silver  Spray  "  (see  diagram  5),  with  8  Ibs.  keel, 
and  nearly  2  in.  more  beam  than  "  Mermaid,"  and  in 
this  vessel  I  reached  about  the  proportional  beam  that 
most  model  yacht  builders  have  adopted,  viz.  3^  beams 


26         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

to  the  length.  I  rigged  her  as  a  cutter  only,  and 
she  easily  beat  "  Mermaid  "  every  way,  I  also  dis- 
covered that  cutter  rig  was  best,  the  boats  under  this 
rig  sailing  faster  and  truer,  and  are  more  quickly 
and  expeditiously  managed ;  at  the  same  time  I  dis- 
carded fixed  rudders  for  reasons  stated  before. 

With  this  model,  "  Silver  Spray,"  I  had  reached  a 
point  at  which  I  stuck  for  some  time  ;  I  could  hardly 
think  still  increased  beam  or  depth  would  be  an  ad- 
vantage, yet  I  wished  to  progress,  and  try  something 
I  would. 

I  thought  the  matter  over  carefully,  and  at  last 
arrived  at  the  following  conclusions :  A  fish  goes 
through  the  water  only,  but  a  ship  goes  through  and 
over.  Now  a  duck  goes  over  the  water  ;  how  would  a 
vessel  built  upon  a  combination  of  fish  and  duck 
succeed  ? 

I  got  a  duck,  took  a  plaster  cast  of  his  under  side, 
noticed  the  way  ducks  got  over  the  water,  the  resistance 
of  the  water  and  the  ripples  and  wake  caused  by  the 


Principles  of  Model  Yacht  Building.  27 

duck's  motion  over  the  water,  and  I  decided  to  make 
a  ship  to  go  over  the  water  rather  than  through  it ; 
the  top  of  the  water  is  alive,  and  easily  displaced  in 
any  direction  save  downwards,  the  deeper  one  goes 
the  stiller  it  is,  and  the  more  difficult  to  displace.  I 
considered,  therefore,  if  I  built  a  vessel  of  greater  beam, 
very  light  draught  of  water,  with  a  lead  keel  well 
below  the  bottom,  I  should  get  greatly  increased  power 
and  speed,  for  I  felt  satisfied  that  the  light  draught  and 
larger  sails  more  than  compensated  for  a  wider  beam. 

It  stands  also  to  reason  that  a  vessel  of  a  wide 
beam  does  not  heel  over  to  leeward  so  much  as  one 
of  a  narrower  beam,  and  it  results  from  that — ist,  the 
sails  being  more  perpendicular  to  the  wind,  have  more 
power  to  propel ;  and  2nd,  the  keel  being  also  more 
"  up  and  down,"  prevents  her  making  so  much  leeway. 

No  doubt  there  is  a  limit  to  breadth  of  beam,  and 
although  I  have  not  yet  fully  experimented,  I  am 
inclined  to  think  that  the  limit  is  reached  in  "  Diana," 
of  three  beams  to  the  length. 


28         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

On  this  I  built  "  Golden  Crest "  (see  diagram  6, 
p.  19),  with  these  qualities,  beam  ioi  in.,  or  \  her 
length  exactly,  and  only  a  bare  4  in.  depth,  and  10  Ibs. 
lead  keel ;  I  fitted  her  with  sails  as  a  cutter,  making 
them  larger  than  those  of  "  Silver  Spray,"  in  proportion 
to  her  increased  beam  and  ballast  (in  lead  keel),  and 
she  more  than  fulfilled  my  utmost  expectations,  for  she 
beat  all  the  three  former  models  out  and  out,  both  in 
speed  and  steadiness. 

Still,  however,  I  had  not  quite  finished  my  experi- 
ments, for  I  remarked  that  in  strong  winds  "  Golden 
Crest,"  on  account  of  her  low  freeboard  (i.e.  little  height 
out  of  the  water),  was  sometimes  overpowered  sooner 
than  I  thought  she  ought  to  be,  and  I  determined  to 
build  another  vessel  on  the  same  lines  and  of  the  same 
size  exactly,  but  with  i  in.  deeper  hold  ;  this  I  did 
in  "Storm  Along"  (see  diagram  7,  p.  19),  the  only 
difference  between  this  and  "  Golden  Crest "  being  the 
i  in.  extra  depth  of  hold ;  lead  keel,  sails,  masts, 
&c.,  &c.,  all  were  exactly  the  same. 


Principles  of  Model  Yacht  Biiilding.  29 

Now,  when  Greek  meets  Greek,  then  comes  the  tug 
of  war.  So  it  was  here,  and  it  was  only  after  num- 
berless trials  in  all  winds,  and  finally  by  actually 
interchanging  their  sails,  that  "  Storm  Along  "  proved 
the  winner ;  the  reason  this  was  difficult  to  establish 
was  that  at  first  I  only  sailed  each  with  its  own 
sails ;  when  the  wind  was  moderate  and  sea  smooth, 
"  Golden  Crest "  won  a  little  ;  on  the  other  hand,  with 
strong  breezes  and  sea  on,  "  Storm  Along "  won.  I 
interchanged  their  sails,  and  "  Storm  Along "  won 
considerably  always.  I  then  found  out  that  I  had 
happened  to  lace  the  feet  of  the  sails  of  "  Storm 
Along  "  to  their  booms,  but  it  never  struck  me  such  a 
trifle  would  interfere  much  with  the  sailing  of  a  model  : 
I  was  mistaken,  however,  for  I  found  whichever  had  the 
laced  sails  was  sure  to  lose,  and  "  Golden  Crest "  lost 
most ;  mind,  all  these  experiments  were  conducted  on 
the  open  sea  for  hours,  with  true  winds  and  true  sea 
(the  most  perfect  test).  I  cut  the  sails  loose,  and  at  once 
and  ever  after,  "  Storm  Along  "  proved  invariably  the 


30         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

victor ;  in  light  winds  by  very,  very  little,  but  in  strong 
winds  the  greater  buoyancy,  and  therefore  lateral  power, 
of  "  Storm  Along  "  always  carried  the  day. 

With  all  these  ships  there  are  no  bulwarks,  no 
ornaments,  or  projections  of  any  kind,  nothing  but  the 
gear,  &c.,  necessary  to  set  the  sails  and  work  them  ; 
everything  else  is  not  only  useless,  but  mischievous 
lumber. 

It  may  be  remarked  that  the  whole  of  those  boats 
when  running  before  the  wind,  with  self-acting  lead 
rudders,  run  at  very  nearly  the  same  speed,  length  to  a 
great  extent  governing  speed  ;  but  on  turning  to  wind- 
ward, each  falls  into  its  place,  as  assigned  to  it  in  the 
foregoing  pages. 

I  have  not  yet  tried  whether  greater  beam  still 
than  i  the  length  is  an  improvement ;  I  am  resting 
on  my  oars  awhile,  and  perhaps  some  one  else  may 
undertake  the  experiment. 

Particulars  of  the  races  between  "  Golden  Crest "  and 
"  Storm  Along  "  are  noted  on  p.  102. 


CHAPTER  II. 


HOW  TO   MAKE  THE   HULL. 


CHAPTER   II. 

HOW   TO   MAKE   THE   HULL. 

BEFORE  entering  upon  the  subject  of  this  chapter,  I  will 
enumerate  the  tools  which  will  be  needed  :  these  are  a 
small  axe,  saw,  plane,  i-in.  gouge,  i-in.  gouge,  a  rasp,  a 
bradawl,  a  screw-driver,  a  gimlet,  a  hammer,  a  pair  of 
small  round-nosed  pliers,  a  rat-tail  file,  a  half-round  file, 
a  small  mallet,  and  last,  though  not  least,  a  good  pocket- 
knife. 

It  is  best  and  easiest,  at  any  rate  for  beginners,  to 
cut  out  model  ships  from  a  solid  block,  because  if  not 
scooped  out  too  thin,  alterations  can  be  made  on  the 
outside  if  desirable ;  if  the  block,  in  process  of  cutting 
out,  should  split,  rub  it  with  a  piece  of  flannel  dipped  in 
linseed  oil  every  time  after  working  on  it,  the  tools  cut 
just  as  easily,  and  all  liability  to  split  is  obviated. 

To  make  a  3-ft.  yacht  (see  lateral  view,   frontispiece  ; 

c 


34         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


deck  outline,  diagram  8,  p.  19;  and  sectional  outlines, 
p.  37),  get  a  block  of  deal,  with  as  few  knots  and  cracks 
in  it  as  possible,  and  well-seasoned  ;  it  must  be  39  in. 
long,  13  in.  wide,  and  8  in.  deep ;  thus — 


Divide  it  into  two  exact  halves,  as  shown  by  the  dotted 
line — this  centre  line  must  never  be  lost  or  rubbed 
out  till  the  hull  is  finished ;  choose  the  best  side  for 
the  deck  or  upper  side,  divide  it  lengthways  into 
eleven  compartments  or  divisions,  and  carefully  set  off 
on  each  side  the  length  of  each  line  (as  shown  in 
diagram  8,  p.  19) ;  thus — 


With  the  axe  (mind  all  the  tools  are  sharp)  chop  off 
carefully  both  sides  of  the  block  till  it  is  shaped  thus — 


How  to  Make  the  Hitll. 


35 


With  the  gouge  cut  out  the  run  and  entrance  in  the 
bottom  of  the  piece  of  wood,  beginning  a  little  forward 
of  the  middle  for  the  run ;  and  at  same  time  cut  away 
so  much  of  the  bottom  as  will  leave  \  in.  for  the  keel, 
by  i  wide.  The  next  diagram  shows  one  side,  with 
entrance  and  run  cut  out. 


Having  cut  out  the  other  side  to  correspond  exactly, 
and  rounded  the  sides  and  bottom  with  the  plane  and 
rasp,  taking  care  all  the  curved  parts  are  in  keeping 
with  the  curves  of  the  deck  diagram  c,  saw  a  slanting 
piece  off  the  cutwater,  about  \  in.  at  bottom  to 
nothing  at  top,  measure  36  in.  from  the  middle  of 

c  2 


36         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

the  cutwater  towards  the  stern,  and  cut  out  the  piece 
of  keel  in  the  run,  so  as  to  leave  the  counter  (projecting 
of  the  stern) ;  thus  (the  dotted  lines  show  where  and 
how  to  cut) — 


The  counter  must  not  project  more  than  3  in.,  and 
therefore  the  ship  will  be  3  ft.  keel,  and  3  ft.  3  in.  over 
all.  Now  smooth  and  model  the  ship  to  your  best 
ability,  see  the  keel  is  quite  straight,  and  the  sternpost 
perpendicular  to  the  stempost  or  cutwater  (a  a  is  the 
sternpost  in  above  diagram  E). 

If  the  vessel  is  now  exactly  equal  on  both  sides,  and 
not  lob-sided,  as  sailors  call  it,  you  can  finish  it  with  the 
rasp,  scrape  it  with  glass,  and  polish  it  with  sand  paper, 
making  the  outside  look  perfectly  ship-shape. 

The  sectional  views  here  shown  enable  the  model 
ship  builder  to  judge  of  the  correctness  of  his  work  ;  they 
represent  the  hull  when  finished^  if  cut  athwart  or  across 


How  to  Make  the  Hull. 


37 


into  four  pieces  of  equal  length,  and  by  holding  the 
vessel  in  the  required  position  the  builder  can  see  if  his 
model  present  these  or  nearly  these  outlines  exteriorly  ; 
if  so,  it  is  right. 

It  is  not  at  all  necessary  to  adhere  exactly  to  this 
outline  of  the  midship  section  (although  it  governs  the 
outlines  of  the  other  two) ;  it  may  be  cut  somewhat 
flatter  on  the  bottom,  as  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines, 
and  this  would  of  course  slightly  vary  the  other  sec- 
tional outlines,  but  I  do  not  think  it  should  be  made 
more  angular,  nor  do  I  advise  it,  as  the  vessel  would 
lose  too  much  buoyancy. 


SECTIONAL  VIEWS. 


The  next  thing  is  to  scoop  it  out  with   the  gouge 
and  mallet.    Leave  the  sides  everywhere  t  or  J  in.  thick, 


38         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

and  be  careful  not  to  scoop  thinner,  or  leave  the  sides 
thicker  in  one  part  than  another. 

The  gouge  is  the  principal  tool  for  this  work,  but  a 
centrebit,  to  bore  holes  all  over  the  inside,  is  a  great 
assistance,  it  saves  half  the  hammering ;  however,  when 
scooped  out  and  the  inside  smoothed,  your  vessel  should 
look  thus — 


Next  make  the  sheer  by  planing  out  the  gunwale 
(gunwale  a  a),  beginning  at  nothing  forward  at  the 
stem,  gradually  increasing  to  -J  in.  amidships,  and  again 
decreasing  to  nothing  at  the  stern.  The  diagram  G  below 
shows  clearly  what  is  meant  by  the  sheer,  and  how  to 
fashion  it :  the  dotted  line  is  the  sheer — 


and  a  vessel  looks  very  stiff  and  ungraceful  without  it. 


How  to  Make  the  Hull.  39 

Now  give  the  inside  a  coat  of  white  paint,  and  then 
the  deck  can  be  put  on.  The  deck  must  be  made  of 
one  piece  of  deal  plank,  without  splits  or  knots,  \  in. 
thick  at  the  sides,  and  f  in.  in  the  middle  ;  this  gives  the 
deck  a  slightly  rounded  appearance,  and,  besides,  greatly 
strengthens  it.  Mark  the  shape  of  the  gunwale  on  the 
plank  by  turning  the  ship  bottom  upwards  upon  it,  and 
marking  it  round  with  a  pencil  ;  draw  a  middle  line 
from  end  to  end,  and  cut  it  to  the  required  shape  as 
near  as  possible. 

A  beam  must  now  be  put  across  the  middle  of  the 
ship,  exactly  level  with  the  gunwale  on  both  sides, 
to  support  the  deck  and  strengthen  the  sides  of  the 
ship  ;  the  beam  should  be  \  in.  square  ;  thus — 


n 


Screw  the  sides  of  the  ship  to  the  ends  of  the  beam  ; 
then  put  on  the  deck,  and  screw  it  to  the  gunwale  all 
round  with  |-in.  brass  (everything  must  be  brass  except 


40         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

the  lead  keel)  screws  at  about  equal  distances  of  3  in., 
and  two  or  three  screws  through  the  deck  into  the 
beam ;  if  this  is  done  in  a  workmanlike  way,  and  the 
edge  of  the  deck  planed  off  and  smoothed  level  with 
the  side  of  the  ship,  the  hull  ought  to  be  perfect,  and 
practically  water-tight.  Mind  in  putting  in  the  beam  to 
leave  place  for  the  hatchway  or  step  of  the  mast. 

The  next  operation  is  to  put  on  the  keels — false  and 
leaden.  The  false  keel  is  simply  a  strip  of  beech,  oak,  or 
mahogany,  of  the  same  length  as  the  keel  of  the  ship, 
f  in.  thick,  \  in.  deep  at  one  end,  and  i  in.  at  the 
other ;  thus — 

)•.  JJICO 

This  must  be  screwed  into  the  keel  of  the  ship  with 
brass  screws  of  proper  length,  i.  e.  not  to  go  through 
the  bottom  of  the  ship,  about  6  in.  apart.  This  false 
keel,  and  the  position  it  occupies,  can  be  easily  seen  in 
the  drawing  of  "  Diana,"  and  is  marked  K  ;  the  leaden 
keel  is  underneath  as  there  shown,  and  I  will  now 
describe  the  best  way  to  make  it. 


How  to  Make  the  Hull.  4 1 

20  Ibs.  of  lead  will  be  required  for  a  3-ft.  yacht,  as 
before  stated,  and  the  lead  can  be  melted  in  any  old 
pot,  on  any  ordinary  clear  kitchen  fire.  First  make  an 
oblong  narrow  box  or  mould  of  any  smooth  i-in.  boards 
— dry,  or  the  lead  will  splutter  and  be  full  of  air-holes 
— 3  ft.  long  inside,  f  in.  inside  width,  2  in.  deep  at 
one  end,  and  3  in.  at  the  other  ;  this  will  hold  about 
20  Ibs.  of  lead,  and  here  follows  a  drawing  of  the 
mould. 


Into  the  bottom  of  this  mould,  and  sticking  upright,  as 
shown  in  the  drawing,  must  be  placed  at  equal  distances 
six  or  eight  pegs,  beginning  about  i  in.  from  the  extreme 
ends  of  the  mould  ;  these  pegs  must  be  rather  thicker 
than  the  screws  intended  to  screw  the  leaden  to  the  false 
keel,  and  will,  as  no  doubt  the  intelligent  reader  already 
perceives,  leave  holes  in  the  cast  leaden  keel  for  the 
screws  to  go  through,  these  screws  may  be  long  enough 


42         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

to  go  through  the  false  keel  into  the  ship's  bottom,  and 
the  work  will  be  all  the  stronger  and  better.  Having 
melted  the  lead,  "pour  it  at  once  into  the  mould,  and 
the  keel  is  made ;  when  cool  take  it  out  of  the  mould, 
trim  it,  smooth  the  sides  and  top  and  bottom  with  the 
plane,  and  let  the  shape  be  something  thus — 


Screw  it  on  to  and  through  the  false  keel  (if  you  cannot 
make  holes  through  the  false  keel  to  receive  the  screws 
without  danger  of  splitting  it,  bore  them  in  their  proper 
places  with  the  bradawl,  and  then  burn  them  out  with  a 
red-hot  skewer)  ;  the  thickest  end  of  the  keel  must  be 
aft  or  behind,  and  when  screwing  it  on  mind  and  bore 
out  the  top  of  the  holes  in  the  lead,  so  that  the  heads 
of  the  screws  may  be  quite  level  with  the  lead  (this 
operation  is  called  countersinking  the  screws) ;  the 
heaviest  end  of  the  lead  is  put  aft  so  as  to  make  the 
ship  well  up  at  the  stem  and  deep  at  the  stern ; 


How  to  Make  the  Hull.  43 

the  reason  for  this  will  be  given  in  the  chapter  on 
"  sailing  a  model  yacht." 

It  may,  however,  be  well  to  add  here  that  the  false 
keel,  by  holding  the  leaden  keel  at  a  greater  distance 
from  the  bottom  of  the  ship,  greatly  increases  the  leverage 
of  the  leaden  keel  without  increasing  the  weight,  and 
gives  great  hold  upon  the  water,  however  little  water  the 
hull  may  draw,  so  that  more  sail  can  be  carried,  and  the 
ship  steer  better  with  this  arrangement  than  without  it. 

Now  try  how  she  floats,  and  if  she  floats  about  3  in. 
deeper  aft  than  forward,  that  will  do. 

Next  get  a  strip  of  sheet  brass  about  5  ft.  long,  \  in. 
wide,  and  \  in.  thick  ;  most  likely  you  will  have  to  get 
this  soldered  in  two  or  three  pieces ;  it  is  to  make  a 
band  to  cover  the  leaden  keel  at  the  bottom,  ends,  and 
also  the  stem  and  sternpost,  to  keep  them  from  being 
injured  by  stones,  &c.,  on  striking  the  shore,  &c. ; 
holes  must  be  punched  in  it  at  every  3  in.  where  it 
covers  the  lead,  and  at  every  inch  where  it  covers  the 
wood  of  the  stem  and  sternpost. 


44         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


K 


The  above  drawing  shows  what  is  meant,  and  the  place 
it  occupies  (I  have  distorted  the  drawing  to  show  it 
better) ;  it  must  be  screwed  with  brass  i-in.  screws, 
countersunk,  to  the  lead  keel,  &c.,  as  above  stated  ;  the 
cutwater  part  of  it  must  be  filed  away  to  \  in.  wide, 
the  rest  may  be  left  \  in.  wide.  This  has  always  been 
to  me  the  most  difficult  operation,  and  it  must  be  well 
done  and  put  on  perfectly  straight  at  bottom  and  both 
ends. 

When  screwing  it  on  leave  one  hole  without  screw 
in  the  stem  for  the  bobstay,  and  two  in  the  sternpost 
for  the  self-acting  rudder,  as  shown  in  this  drawing. 


HOLES   TO    BE    LEF 

TOR 

RUDDER    HINGES 


The  one  in  the  stem  must  be  about  5  in.  from  top,  and 


How  to  Make  the  Hull.  45 

the  two  in  the  sternpost  about  5  in.  apart — the  black 
dots  show  the  places. 

The  hull  is  now  finished  ;  next  scratch  the  deck  with 
straight  lines  \  in.  apart  from  stem  to  stern  to  imitate 
planks,  leaving  \  in.  margin  all  round  to  look  like  a 
gunwale,  and  with  the  following  remarks  I  will  close 
this  chapter. 

It  must  be  understood  that  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  mention  every  operation  ;  many  things,  and  the 
way  to  do  them,  must  be  left  to  the  ingenuity  and  skill 
of  the  builder ;  it  is  sufficient  that  if  my  directions  have 
been  reasonably  carried  out,  the  result,  so  far,  will  be  a 
good  seaworthy  model  yacht's  hull. 

I  have  given  in  this  chapter  and  elsewhere  the  dimen- 
sions for  a  3-ft.  boat,  because  it  is  easier  to  work  down- 
wards from  a  large  size  than  upwards  from  a  small  one. 
There  is  less  chance  of  mistake,  fo^  an  error  in  a  2-ft. 
boat  would  be  multiplied  by  working  upwards,  while  the 
same  error  would  be  decreased  in  working  downwards. 

A  3-ft.  boat  is  somewhat  large  and  heavy  ;  2  ft.  and 


46         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

2  ft.  6  in.  are  the  best  sizes.  Indeed,  unless  a  large 
boat  is  specially  required,  beginners  should  not  attempt 
anything  larger  than  a  2-ft.  boat,  and  even  a  boat  i  ft. 
6  in.  is  a  very  good  size  for  boys,  and  will  sail,  &c.,  as 
well  as  a  3-ft.  boat,  though  of  course  not  so  fast. 

I  append  tables  of  measurement  for  the  blocks  of 
wood  and  weight  of  keels  for  all  these  sizes  :  — 

For  3-ft.  boat,  block  39"  x   13"  x  8",  keel  20  Ibs. 

„  2-ft.-6-in.boat,,,  32^x  io(|-x6|    „      10  „ 

„  2-ft.  boat,  „  26  x  8f  x  5-i-    „        7  „ 

„  i-ft-6-in.boat,  „  19^x6^  X4      „        3  „ 

It  would  not  matter  if  in  the  large  sizes  the  keel  were 
a  pound  or  so  heavier,  and  in  the  small  a  half-pound  or 
so  ;  but  on  no  account  must  they  be  lighter  in  any  case. 
I  also  add  the  weight  of  the  leaden  rudders  necessaiy 
to  make  the  vessels  run  before  the  wind. 

3-ft.  boat  requires  i^  Ibs. 
2-ft.-6-in.  boat  „  f  „ 
2-ft.  boat  „  \  „ 
l-ft.-6-in.  boat  „  ?  „ 

For  the  masts,  sails,  and  tackle  of  smaller  boats,  the 
calculation  of  size  may  be  easily  made. 


CHAPTER   III. 


HOW  TO  MAKE  DECK  FITTINGS,  RUDDER,  &c. 


CHAPTER   III. 

HOW  TO   MAKE   DECK   FITTINGS,    RUDDER,    ETC. 

I  PURPOSE  in  this  chapter  to  show  how  to  make  and 
fit  all  that  is  required  on  the  deck  to  secure  and  work 
the  rigging  and  sails.  The  following  is  a  diagram  of  the 
deck  of  the  ship,  with  each  object  in  its  proper  place, 
and  further  on  will  be  given  enlarged  drawings  of  each, 
with  description : — 


The  first  object,  a,  is  a  i  l-in.  or  2-in.  screw-eye,  with 
large  eye  for  the  bowsprit  to  go  through  ;  this  must  be 
carefully  screwed  into  the  thick  wood  at  the  stem 
through  the  deck ;  b  is  the  chock  for  the  heel  or  inner 


D 


50         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


end  of  the  bowsprit  to  fit  in ;  c  is  the  horse  for  the 
foresheet  to  work  on ;  d  is  the  hole  or  step  for  the 
mainmast ;  e  is  the  hatchway  or  opening  in  the  deck, 
just  large  enough  to  admit  the  hand  easily ;  f  is  the 
horse  for  the  mainsheet  to  travel  on  ;  ^^and  hh  are  i-in. 
eye-bolts  (screw-eyes)  for  the  bowsprit  guys,  and  main- 
backstays  to  be  hooked  to  ;  these  must  be  firm  and  strong. 
Here  is  a  diagram  of  masts,  spars,  and  rigging  only. 


a  mainmast. 
b  topmast, 
cgaff. 

d  mainboom. 

e  starboard  or  right  backstay, 
/larboard  or  left  backstay. 
g  bowsprit. 

h  starboard  bowsprit  guy. 
i  larboard  bowsprit  guy. 
j  bobstay. 

k  India-rubber  ring  to  keep  boom 
down. 


Inserting  the  screw-eye  for  the  bowsprit,  a,  requires  no 
explanation  :  it  must  be  just  large  enough  in  the  eye  for 


How  to  Make  Deck  Fittings,  Rudder,  &c.        5 1 

the  bowsprit  to  go  through ;  if  not  large  enough,  file  it 
to  the  necessary  size  with  the  rat-tail  file. 

The  chock  b  (p.  49)  must  be  made  out  of  a  piece  of 
oak  or  mahogany  about  3  in.  long,  and  about  i  in. 
thick ;  a  hole  \  in.  deep,  and  of  the  diameter  of  the  end 
or  heel  of  the  bowsprit  should  be  made  in  it ;  thus — 
i^BKfe^  '  ^e  other  end  may  be  tapered  off  to  taste, 
and  screwed  strongly  right  through  into  the  deck 
exactly  amidships.  It  should  be  of  such  a  height  that 
when  the  bowsprit  is  in  its  place  it  shall  be  perfectly  in 
a  line  with  the  mid-deck  line,  and  also  with  the  stem 
and  stern  (as  shown  in  the  diagram,  p.  50).  The  chock 
may  be  placed  any  distance  from  the  stem,  so  long  as  it 
is  not  too  close  to  the  horse  for  foresheet  (diagram,  p.  49). 

The  horse  for  foresheet  is  made  as  follows :  Cut  two 
diamond  or  other  shaped  pieces  of  sheet  brass,  \  in. 
thick,  and  about  ijin.  in  length;  thus —  <C?^>  '  ma^e 
a  small  hole  at  each  corner,  and  a  larger  hole  in  the  centre; 
then  take  about  5  in.  of  thick  brass  wire,  and  bend  it  at 
the  ends  so  as  to  be  4  in.  apart,  put  the  ends  through  the 

D  2 


52         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


plates  ;   thus —   ^fL  <^>>  anc^  so^er  or 

^Hfa  la 

get  soldered,  the  wire  to  the  plates  underneath ;  bore 
holes  in  the  deck  4  in.  apart,  2  in.  or  so  forward  of  the 
mainmast,  and  at  equal  distance  from  the  mid-deck 
line ;  fit  in  the  two  ends,  a  a,  and  screw  the  plates 
firmly  to  the  deck  :  if  it  is  desired  to  be  very  neat,  all 
the  small  holes  should  be  countersunk. 

Another  horse  must  be  made  exactly  the  same  way, 
but  i  in.  wider  and  somewhat  stronger,  for  the  main- 
sheet  (diagram,  p.  49,./),  and  put  as  near  the  edge  of 
the  stern  as  due  regard  for  strength  will  permit. 

The  step  or  socket  for  the  mainmast  comes  next. 
Get  a  short  piece  of  brass  tube  f  in.  internal  diameter, 
and  about  7^  in.  long ;  have  a  screw  soldered  into  one 
end ;  thus — 


Bore   a  hole    in  the   deck  exactly  amidships,   and   of 
exactly  the   same  diameter  as  the  outside  of  the  pipe 


How  to  Make  Deck  Fittings,  Rudder,  &c.        53 

or  socket  13  in.  from  the  stem,  /.  e.  \  the  length  of  the 
deck  ;  put  the  brass  tube  in  the  hole,  and  screw  it  tightly 
to  the  bottom  of  the  ship,  perpendicular  to  a  line  drawn 
from  stem  to  stern,  and  also  from  side  to  side,  so  that 
the  mainmast  when  put  in  it  will  be  perfectly  upright 
from  all  sides  ;  file  the  top  of  the  socket  off  if  too  high, 
so  as  to  leave  not  more  than  J  in.  above  the  deck. 

To  make  the  hatchway  or  hole  (e  in  diagram,  p.  49), 
cut  out  an  oval  or  oblong  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  deck, 
just  abaft  or  behind  the  beam  (diagram  H,  p.  39) ;  a 
water-tight  cover  or  stopper  must  be  made  for  this  with 
cork,  wood,  or  anything  the  maker  pleases,  it  matters 
not  provided  it  is  not  much  above  the  level  of  the  deck, 
is  water-tight,  and  can  be  taken  in  or  out. 

Now  bore  a  small  hole  through  the  deck,  close  to  the 
starboard  quarter  (see  i  in  diagram,  p.  49),  make  a 
short  peg  to  fit  it,  and  call  it  the  pump;  by  inclining 
the  ship  towards  this  hole  after  sailing,  and  drawing 
the  peg,  you  can  see  if  she  has  leaked,  and  let  the 
water  out  if  necessary. 


54         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

The  screw-eyes  g  g  and  h  h,  p.  49,  explain  themselves 
by  referring  to  e,  f,  h,  and  2,  in  diagram,  p.  50 ;  they 
are  to  hook  on  the  rigging  as  there  shown.  These 
eye-bolts,  h  h,  must  be  as  close  abaft  the  mainmast  as  is 
consistent  with  their  properly  supporting  the  mainmast, 
both  laterally  and  aftwards.  The  reason  is  that  if 
placed  too  far  aft  they  would  interfere  with  the  main- 
boom  swinging  far  enough  out  when  running  before  the 
wind  ;  the  nearer  the  mainboom  is  to  a  right  angle  with 
the  keel,  the  steadier  and  faster  the  ship  will  run  before 
the  wind,  g  g  may  be  in  a  line  with  the  horse  for  the 
foresheet  c  (diagram,  p.  49) ;  care  must  be  taken  to 
screw  them  through  the  edge  of  the  deck,  and  into  the 
gunwale  firmly. 

To  cast  the  rudder,  make  a  small  wooden  mould  or 
box  similar  to  that  for  the  keel,  about  6  in.  long,  3  in. 
deep,  and  \  in.  wide. 


How  to  Make  Deck  Fittings,  Rudder,  &c.        55 

Insert  two  moderately  thick  pieces  of  brass  wire  through 
the  bottom,  and  about  an  inch  into  the  box  (as  in  dotted 
line),  bend  them  so  as  to  make  them  stick  in  the 
lead,  and  just  as  far  apart  as  are  the  two  screw-eyes  for 
this  rudder  in  diagram  "stern,"  p.  44;  pour  in  li  Ibs. 
of  melted  lead,  trim  the  lead  with  the  rasp,  and  turn  the 
wires  thus —  Ip.  jB  ;  and  when  hooked  into 

the  screw-eyes  or  gudgeons,  it  should  act  easily  either 
to  right  or  left.  Skilful  or  tasteful  young  model  yacht 
sailors  can  vary  the  shape  of  the  rudder ;  I  have  given 
the  simplest  and  easiest  shape  to  make. 

This  completes  all  the  deck  fittings  necessary  for 
working  and  sailing  the  ship,  but  if  on  trial  the  rudder 
should  be  too  heavy  or  too  light,  another  must  be  made 
— experience  is  the  best  guide. 

I  need  hardly  say  that  every  direction  I  have  given 
need  not  be  followed  to  the  letter ;  those  who  see  and 
know  what  is  required  can  do  many  things  in  their  own 
way,  and  much  must  necessarily  be  left  to  individual 
taste,  skill,  and  ingenuity. 


56         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

At  this  stage,  varnish  the  deck  with  copal  varnish, 
and  paint  the  hull  whatever  colour  or  colours  fancy 
dictates ;  I,  however,  advise  one  colour  only  for  the 
hull,  it  is  less  trouble  and  easier  to  repaint  or  repair, 
eventualities  often  recurring  with  model  yachts. 


CHAPTER   IV. 


HOW  TO  FIT  MASTS,  STANDING  AND  RUNNING 

GEAR,  &c. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

HOW  TO  FIT  MASTS,  STANDING  AND  RUNNING  GEAR,  ETC. 

THE  best  material  for  making  masts  and  spars  is 
bamboo-canes,  these  require  little  trimming,  can  be 
procured  of  any  thickness  and  length,  and  are  stronger, 
lighter,  and  more  elastic  than  any  other  kind  of  wood. 

The  mainmast  must  be  38  in.  long  from  the  deck, 
and  f  in.  diameter  at  the  foot,  to  fit  the  socket  or  step 
(diagram,  p.  52),  slightly  tapering  to  the  head  or  top; 
the  head  must  be  fitted  with  a  brass  ferrule  or  socket 
for  the  topmast  (like  a  fishing-rod),  and  must  be  included 
in  the  above  38  in.  length,  but  as  the  mast  has  to  fit  in 
the  step,  the  depth  of  the  step  must  be  added  to  it. 

If  the  yacht  builder  cannot  solder  or  get  soldered 
eyes  on  the  socket  at  the  mast-head,  he  must  lash  them 
on  for  the  foresail,  jib,  and  main  and  peak  halyards, 
and  also  for  the  main  backstays  ;  thus — 


60         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


a  socket  for  topmast. 
b  ring  for  peak  halyards. 

throat  halyards. 

jib  halyards. 

foresail  halyards. 

starboard  backstay, 
g  larboard  backstay. 


Rings  d  and  e  must  be  lashed  forward,  b  and  c  aft, 
f  and  g  one  on  each  side,  e  and  c  about  an  inch  below 
f  and  b  ;  this  is  all  necessary  for  the  mainmast. 

The  bowsprit  must  be  34^  in.  long  outside  the  stem 
and  a  trifle  thicker  than  the  mainmast ;  be  careful  to 
allow  the  extra  length  from  the  stem  to  the  chock 
(p.  51) ;  it  must  have  rings  (these  rings  can  be  got  at 
any  fishing  shop,  of  all  sizes —  °  O  O  O »  anX  size 
will  do,  so  that  the  lines  used  pass  easily  through) 


How  to  Fit  Masts,  &c.  61 

for  the  guys  and  bobstay  lashed  on,  and  hooks  for 
the  jib  and  foresail ;  tip  the  end  with  a  band  thus,  to 
prevent  damage  to  it  by  collisions — 


a  a  rings  on  each  side,  close  to  the  end,  for  the  guys. 
b  ring  for  bobstay  underneath. 

c  hook  for  jib  tack.          ~)  . 
,,,,.,         .,       .     \  both  to  be  on  top. 
a  hook  for  foresail  tack.  ) 

The  hooks,  c  and  d,  for  the  tacks  cannot  be  lashed 
on  till  the  sails  are  made  and  fitted,  for  as  the  jib  must 
always  swing  clear  of  the  foresail,  and  the  foresail  clear 
of  the  mainmast,  it  is  best  to  try  them  before  lashing  on 
these  hooks. 

These  hooks  are  made  of  stout  brass  wire  about 
ij  in.  long,  flattened  where  to  be  lashed,  and  the  end 
turned  up  with  the  pliers;  thus—  "j) ;  the 

hook  i  in.  high  is  plenty,  so  that  the  sails  may  be  as 
low  down  as  possible. 

Next,  with  the  pliers  make  a  dozen  hooks  or  so,  this 


62         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


shape  and  size —  CU*^^ ,  of  strong  wire  ;  and  two  of 
still    stouter  wire,   this   shape  and   size,    say    i    in. — 

Q<^       *\;  the  former  are  for  the  various  standing 

^^^^WBBB^^^ 

and  running  gear,  and  the  two  latter  for  the  foresail 
sheet  and   mainsheet.      Make   also  a  dozen   or  so  of 


wood  or  bone  slides  to  pattern —  (°^  o  Q  •  one 
hook  and  one  slide  at  least  is  required  for  every  rope  that 
has  to  be  lengthened  or  shortened.  Ladies'  bone  meshes 
of  suitable  width  and  thickness  make  the  best  slides. 

The  following  diagram  shows  the  application  and  use 
of  these  in  all  instances ;  say  you  are  fitting  the  lar- 
board mainbackstay  (f  in  diagram,  p.  50),  make  fast 
your  line  to  the  ring  (gt  diagram,  p.  60)  at  the  mainmast 
head,  pass  the  line  through  two  holes  of  the  slide,  then 
through  a  hook  which  must  be  hooked  on  to  the  screw- 
eye  (f,  diagram,  p.  50),  back  through  the  other  hole  in 
the  slide,  and  make  it  fast  there  by  a  knot,  only  see  the 
line  is  not  too  long  or  too  short  for  convenient  working. 
By  this  means,  as  you  will  soon  see,  any  rope  can  be 
fitted  that  requires  it,  and  can  be  lengthened  or  short- 


How  to  Fit  Masts,  &c. 


ened  in  a  moment  without  danger  of  slipping  ;  thus — 


The  best  line  for  all  the  gear  is  suitable  sizes  of  fishing- 
line.  If  the  line  kinks,  i.  e.  gets  into  twists,  put  a  yard 
or  so  at  a  time  through  the  loop  of  the  key  in  a  door, 
cross  it  over  itself  once  or  twice,  and  rub  it  backwards 
and  forwards,  that  takes  all  the  turn  out. 

The  brass  wire  required  may  be  these  sizes — 

for  small  hooks. 
1      „  larger  hooks,  &c.,  &c. 

„   foresheet  horse. 
„  mainsheet  horse. 

Now  comes  the  mainboom  (d,  diagram,  p.  50) ;  it 
must  be  36  in.  long,  a  little  thinner  than  the  mainmast, 
and  must  be  fitted  thus — 


Put  a  brass  band,  a,  ±  in.  wide,  round  the  thicker  end, 
drive  a  peg  strongly  into  the  hollow  of  the  bamboo  (the 
band  is  to  stop  it  splitting),  and  screw  in  a  screw-eye, 


64         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

as  shown  at  b  above ;  then  lash  one  ring  on  at  c,  say 
15  in.  from  a,  and  another  at  d,  both  on  the  under  side  of 
the  boom,  this  last  crossways.  These  two  rings  are  for 
the  mainsheet /j  and  are  most  important ;  they  must  be 
well  put  on,  the  latter,  d,  about  12  in.  from  the  outer 
end  of  the  boom,  so  as  to  work  well  when  the  hook  e  is 
hooked  on  to  the  horse  for  this  sheet  (viz.  mainsheet) 
at  the  stern ;  this  hook,  e,  is  to  be  one  of  the  large 
hooks  (as  shown  p.  62). 

In  order  that  the  mainsheet  should  not  have  to  be 
made  too  long,  and  thereby  get  foul  of  the  stern,  &c., 
when  the  boom  swings  over  in  running  or  reaching, 
it  is  best  to  have  another  sheet  called  the  "  running 
sheet,"  to  be  fitted  as  follows  : — 

Screw  a  screw-eye  (a  strong  one)  into  the  middle  of 
the  deck,  just  abaft  the  hatchway,  lash  a  ring  to  the 
underside  of  the  mainboom  exactly  over  the  screw-eye 
when  the  mainboom  is  amidships,  fasten  a  strong 
piece  of  line  to  the  screw-eye,  put  on  a  slide,  then  pass 
it  through  a  hook,  and  fasten  off  to  the  slide,  and 


How  to  Fit  Masts,  &c.  65 

hook  into  the  ring  on  the  mainboom ;  and  let  this 
sheet  be  just  so  long,  that  when  the  mainboom  is  out 
as  far  as  it  can  go  for  the  backstays,  it  will  just  take 
the  strain  off  the  backstays,  .on  whichever  side  it 
happens  to  be,  in  running  before  the  wind. 

By  means  of  this  running  sheet,  when  the  after 
mainsheet  is  unhooked,  the  mainboom  can  be  kept  in 
or  let  out  to  any  required  angle  without  the  sheet 
fouling,  and  as  the  runnkig  sheet  is  fast  to  the  ship 
only,  it  can  be  easily  unhooked  from  the  mainboom 
when  unrigging.  Still,  this  running  sheet  is  not 
absolutely  necessary,  but  is  a  very  great  convenience. 

To  attach  the  mainboom  to  the  mast,  and  allow  it  to 
move  freely,  get  a  strip  of  sheet  brass  f  in.  wide, 
just  long  enough  to  go  round  the  mast  (close  to  the 
deck),  and  f  in.  over  at  each  end  ;  bore  a  hole  at  each 
end  thus —  C:lfr;:.ji:/ :,,:,:::,.,,;, '.^li.^^ijfeL^-j  ,  and  bend  it  round 
the  mast.  With  the  pincers  nip  the  two  ends 
close  together,  and  so  that  the  two  holes  are 
in  a  line  thus — 


66 


Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


Now  put  the  screw-eye  at  the  end  of  the  mainboom 
between  these  two  holes,  fasten  it  there  with  a  bit  of 
wire  turned  round  at  each  end  ;  thus — 


No  arrangement  can  be  more  perfect  or  stronger  than 
this. 

The  above  operation  has  to  be  repeated  for  thtjaws 
or  inner  end  of  the  gaff  (c  in  diagram,  p.  50),  but  the 
ring  must  fit  the  head  of  the  mast  instead  of  the  foot. 

The  gaff  must  be  2ii  in.  long,  and  a  little  thinner 
than  the  mainboom  ;  thus — 


How  to  Fit  Masts,  &c.  67 

Lash  one  large  ring  at  a,  as  close  to  the  end  as  possible, 
two  others,  smaller,  further  out  at  b  and  c,  and  one  at 
d\  all  these  rings  must  be  on  the  top  side  of  the  gaff, 
d  an  inch  from  the  outer  end  of  the  gaff,  for  the  sheet  of 
the  topsail  to  be  hooked  on  (see  frontispiece). 

The  topmast  is  a  taper  bamboo,  the  lower  end  of 
which  must  fit  tightly  into  the  socket  at  the  mainmast 
head,  it  must  be  24  in.  long  outside  the  socket ;  lash 
two  small  rings  at  opposite  sides,  \  in.  from  the  head, 
put  a  knob  on  the  top  (called  the  truck),  and  the  top- 
mast is  ready. 

The  boom  for  the  foresail  (/.  e.  the  spar  that  extends 
the  foot  of  the  sail)  must  be  20  in.  long,  that  for  the  jib 
25^  in.  long,  and  both  about  the  thickness  of  the  gaff; 
here,  however,  use  your  judgment.  Lash  rings  on  for 
the  sheets  of  each  ;  each  must  have  a  sliding  sheet 
(see  drawing  at  end  of  this  chapter)  the  same  as  for  the 
mainsheet  (p.  63)  ;  the  jib  sheet,  however,  requires  no 
hook  at  the  end,  but  must  be  made  fast  to  the  bowsprit, 
or,  if  greater  precision  is  required,  a  horse  may  be  made 

E  2 


68         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


for  the  jib  as  for  the  other  sails,  and   fastened   in  its 


proper  place  across  the  bowsprit,  and  to  the  guys  as 
above  ;  it  may  be  made  of  thin  brass  wire,  as  follows, 
merely  taking  care  that  it  is  the  right  length,  and  that 
the  horse  is  an  inch  or  so  less  than  the  foresheet  horse, 
It  is  made  of  four  pieces  of  wire,  the  horse  bent,  as  in 
diagram  below,  and  the  other  pieces  soldered  to  it ;  the 


(T 


guys  may  be  passed  through  the  loops  a  on  their  re- 
spective sides,  and  knots  made  to  keep  them  in  place;  it 
will  be  perfectly  self-acting,  and  never  get  out  of  place ; 
the  weather  guy  being  always  tight  will  always  keep  it 
nearly  horizontal  ;  it  makes  the  jib,  like  the  other  sails, 


How  to  Fit  Masts,  &c.  69 


a  good  driving  as  well  as  steering  sail.  Besides  the 
above  rings,  another  must  be  lashed  on  the  outer  end 
(all  the  rings  on  the  boom  are  underneath)  of  each 
boom,  a  and  b,  about  2.\  in.  from  the  end  ;  thus — 


and  must  both  be  crosswise,  as  they  are  to  secure  these 
booms  to  their  respective  hooks  (see  c  and  d  on  bow- 
sprit, p.  6 1  ;  and  also  diagram,  p.  70).  This  manner 
of  fixing  these  sails  is  the  best  to  keep  them  tight  and 
flat  when  in  use. 

This  diagram  shows  the  best  mode  of  fixing  the  tacks 
of  jib  and  foresail  to  the  bowsprit ;  by  this  means,  when 
the  sail  fills  with  the  wind,  it  raises  the  after  end  of  the 
boom,  depresses  the  fore  end,  and  thus  tightens  the  luff 
of  the  sail  and  keeps  it  taut,  which  is  very  necessary. 
This  diagram  also  shows  how  the  jib  and  foresail  swing 


70         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


clear  of  each  other ;  also  that  the  jib  must  not  quite  go 
to  the  end  of  the  bowsprit,  or  it  may  be  knocked  off. 


When  all  the  rings  are  carefully  and  neatly  lashed 
on,  say  with  strong  white  thread, — lashing  is  the 
best,  because  it  does  not  weaken  the  spars  by  making 
it  necessary  to  bore  holes  in  them, — varnish  all  the 
lashings  with  copal  varnish,  it  will  preserve  them  and 
prevent  them  slipping. 

Each  maker  must  use  a  little  judgment,  and  under- 


How  to  Fit  Masts,  &c. 


stand  what  he  is  going  to  do  before  he  does  it,  and  as  in 
some  instances  the  spars,  or  what  not,  may  be  a  little 
too  long,  the  best  plan  is  for  the  maker  to  try  each 
and  everything  before  spoiling  his  work. 


Enlarged  Diagram  of  how  to  fix  the  sliding  sheets  for  the  respective  booms, 
i.  e.  jib,  fore,  and  main. 


CHAPTER  V. 


HOW  TO  MAKE  THE  SAILS  AND  SET  THEM. 


CHAPTER  V. 

HOW  TO  MAKE  THE  SAILS  AND  SET  THEM. 

THE  speed  and  precision  in  the  sailing  of  a  model  yacht, 
depend  much  more  upon  the  sails  than  the  hull,  and 
the  greatest  care  must  be  taken  in  making  them. 

If  pains  are  taken  to  carry  out  the  following 
directions,  an  excellent  suit  of  self-acting  sails  will 
be  the  result. 

The  best  material  is  either  bleached  or  unbleached 
calico,  i  yd.  wide,  at  %d.  per  yd.,  and  for  a  2-ft.  yacht 
lod.  per  yd. ;  3  yds.  are  sufficient  for  a  3-ft.  boat.  Steep 
the  calico  in  clean  water,  and  dry  it  across  a  line 
before  using  it.  It  is  always  better  to  cut  the  patterns 
of  the  sails  out  in  paper,  and  try  them  in  their  places, 
before  cutting  the  stuff. 

On  the  next  page  are  given  diagrams  of  the  four 
sails  for  a  cutter,  and  as  all  are  cut  on  the  cross,  care 


76         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


must  be  taken  when  hemming  them  not  to  pucker  or 
stretch  the  material ;  the  after  leach,  /.  e.  the  behind 
edge  of  all  the  sails,  must  be  the  selvedge,  and  must 
not  be  hemmed.  In  cutting  out,  allowance  must  be 
made  for  the  hems,  the  measurements  given  being  the 
actual  sizes  required. 


The  bottoms  of  the  sails  must  be  slightly  rounded,  as 
shown  above,  and  a  narrow  tape  must  be  sewn  across,  as 
shown  by  the  dotted  lines,  to  keep  the  sails  from  stretching. 

All  the  sewing  for  these  sails  can  be  done  perfectly 
and  expeditiously  with  any  lock-stitch  machine ;  it 
will  sew  them  exactly  even  without  puckering,  and  all 


How  to  Make  the  Sails  and  Set  them.  77 


that  has  to  be  done  by  hand  is  to  fasten  off  the  corners. 
I  make  all  my  own  sails,  and  can,  without  hurry, 
make  a  full  large  suit  for  a  3-ft.  boat  in  an  evening. 

The  selvedges  are  not  to  be  hemmed,  because  the 
after  leaches  of  all  the  sails  should  allow  the  wind  to 
pass  freely  off.  The  sizes  of  the  sails  are  marked  on 
the  diagrams  distinctly ;  allow  \  in.  extra  on  the  outer 
leach  of  the  mainsail,  from  c  to  d  in  diagram  below,  so 
that  it  may  be  slightly .  loose ;  this  helps  to  steer 
materially,  as  the  leach  will  shake  before  the  body  of 
the  sail,  if  the  vessel  comes  too  much  up  in  the  wind, 
and  so  losing  its  power  allow  the  ship  to  fall  off  and 
sail  steadily.  This  diagram  shows 
how  to  cut  the  head  of  the  mainsail ; 
the  dotted  line  shows  how  the  sail 
would  be  if  cut  straight,  therefore 
cut  straight  from  a  to  b,  then  slant 
off  to  d  at  rather  more  than  midway  from  a  to  c. 
Make  eight  or  ten  eyelet  holes  at  equal  distances  in 
the  hoist  of  the  mainsail,  and  fix  a  ring  or  grummet 


78         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

of  twine  in  each  hole  to  fit  loosely  round  the  mainmast ; 
these  are  better  than  brass  rings  or  wooden  hoops, 
and  weigh  nothing. 

The  lower  outer  corner  of  the  mainsail  should  be 
double  for  2  or  3  in.  (see  diagram,  p.  76),  to  strengthen 
it ;  in  fact,  the  corners  of  all  the  sails  are  none  the 
worse  for  being  so  doubled. 

Now  fix  the  sail  to  the  mainboom  and  gaff;  with  a 
needle  and  strong  thread  is  best :  do  not  pull  the 
sail  too  tight.  The  boom  will  then  be  2  in.  or  so  too 
long ;  do  not  cut  that  off,  it  is  useful  to  turn  the  ship 
with ;  leave  also  the  extra  length  of  the  gaff,  it  looks 
better.  The  head  of  the  sail  must  be  laced  or  tied 
to  the  gaff  at  intervals  of  i  in.,  but  on  no  account 
lace  the  foot  of  the  sails  to  the  booms ;  (for  reason 
why  see  p.  29)  the  sail  is  then  ready. 

In  setting,  i.  e.  putting  on,  the  mainsail,  when  you 
have  passed  the  foot  of  the  mainmast  through  the 
jaws  of  the  gaff  and  all  the  grummets,  then  before 
passing  it  through  the  jaws  of  the  mainboom,  put  on 


How  to  Make  the  Sails  and  Set  them.  79 


an  India-rubber  ring,  and  then  the  mainboom ;  the 
ring  must  be  pretty  tight  to  the  mast,  and  is  very 
useful  to  keep  the  mainboom  from  slipping  up.  For 
position  of  this  ring,  see  k  in  diagram,  p.  50. 

To  hold  the  mainsail  up,  the  inner  ring  on  the  gaff 
and  lower  after-ring  on  the  mainmast  head,  must  have 
stout  twine  passed  through  and  made  fast.  This  is 
called  the  throat-halyards. 

The  gaff  must  be  kept  at  its  proper  angle  by  means 
of  twine  made  fast  to  the  next  ring  on  the  gaff,  passed 
through  a  hook,  which  hook  into  the  upper  after-ring 
at  the  mainmast  head,  and  fasten  off  at  the  third  ring 
on  the  gaff.  This  is  called  the  peak-halyards.  With 
these  two,  peak  and  throat-halyards,  you  can  easily  fix 
the  mainsail,  so  that  when  the  mainboom  is  half  an 
inch  above  the  deck  at  the  mast,  and  about  an  inch  or 
so  clear  of  the  mainsheet  horse  at  the  stern,  the  sail 
shall  set  perfectly  flat. 

The  annexed  arrangement  of  the  topmast  stay  is 
excellent ;  it  keeps  tight  the  luff  of  the  jib,  slightly 


8o         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


slacks  up   the  after-leach,  and  is  no  trouble  whatever 
to  fix  or  unfix.     It  simply  consists  of  putting  a  large 

ring  (so  that  the  hook  can  pass 
through)  at  the  top  point  of  the 
jib,  pass  the  topmast  stay-hook 
through,  and  hook  it  into  a  ring 
sewn  on  to  the  luff  any  distance 
down  you  think  sufficient,  as  in 
diagram  at  side,  a  topmast,  b 
topmast  stay,  c  mainsail,  </jib. 

The  jib  must  have  a  piece  of  tape  stitched  from  a  to 
b  on  the  double,  \  in.  each  side  (see  p.  76),  and  a  ring 
sewn  on  at  b.  A  hem  only  in  the  luff  would  be 
useless  on  account  of  the  strain.  The  same  must  be 
done  to  the  foresail  ;  hem  the  bottoms,  and  leave  the 
selvedges  as  they  are. 

Lash  them  to  their  respective  yards  or  booms  (see 
diagram,  pp.  69  and  70).  Of  course  the  sail  must  be 
on  the  top  of  the  boom,  and  the  -rings  and  sheets 
underneath  ;  try  them  in  their  places ;  now  lash 


How  to  Make  the  Sails  and  Set  them.  81 


on  the  hooks  to  the  bowsprit  (see  p.  61),  and  you  will 
see  exactly  where  to  put  them ;  mind,  the  jib  must 
swing  just  clear  of  both  bowsprit  and  foresail  (see 
frontispiece),  and  the  foresail  just  clear  of  the  mast 
and  stem.  Fit  both  these  sails  at  the  head  with  a 
hook  and  slide,  the  end  of  the  line  to  be  fast  to  the 
head  of  the  sail,  and  the  hook  is  to  hook  into  the  rings 
(respectively)  at  the  mainmast  head  (see  frontispiece), 
which  shows  exactly  how  all  the  sails  set.  The  booms 
for  these  sails  (jib  and  foresail)  must  be  cut  close,  as 
there  is  no  room  to  spare. 

The  topsail  is  28  in.  high,  and  reaches  from  the 
large  ring  in  the  jaws  of  the  gaff  (a,  p.  66)  to  the 
topmast  head,  and  before  cutting  it  out  the  mainsail 
must  be  tried  and  set.  The  shape  of  this  sail  depends 
on  the  peak  or  angle  of  the  gaff ;  and  having  made  a 
pattern  in  paper  to  fit  thus,  make  eyelet  holes  equidis- 
tant from  b  to  head  of  the  mainmast,  and  put  in  rings 
of  twine  to  fit  the  topmast  loosely,  as  was  done  before 
with  mainsail ;  fasten  a  hook  to  each  of  the  corners,  a, 

F 


82          Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


b,  c,  to  hook  into  the  respective  rings  already  placed 
for  them  ; — if  the  hooks  are  too  short, 
use  a  piece  of  twine  sewn  to  the  sail,  at 
b  and  c  only,  to  lengthen  them  ; — now 
sew  a  button  at  the  edge  of  the 
curved  bottom  of  the  sail  at  d,  and  a 
loop  to  button  on  it  on  the  head  of 
the  mainsail  at  e;  this  keeps  the 
rounded  foot  always  flat. 
The  masts,  sails,  and  gear  being  now  all  complete, 
try  them  on,  and  make  any  little  alterations  that  may 
be  necessary.  If  my  directions  have  been  intelligently 
followed,  the  sails  will  be  exactly  the  sizes  and  shape 
of  those  in  the  lateral  diagram,  frontispiece. 

A  strong,  fine  piece  of  line,  fitted  with  a  slide  and  hook, 
in  the  usual  way,  the  end  made  fast  to  the  topmast 
head  ring  forward,  and  the  hook  to  be  hooked  into 
the  ring  at  the  jib  head  or  top  corner  (see  the  diagram 
p.  80,  and  also  frontispiece).  This  is  to  raise  the  foot 
of  the  jib,  if  required,  and  also  to  steady  the  topmast ; 


How  to  Make  the  Sails  and  Set  them.  83 

this  is  a  simple  though  not  so  effectual  a  topmast  stay  as 
that  given,  p.  80. 

The  sails  must  be  as  tight  and  flat  as  possible  when 
set,  and  the  mast  must  be  kept  exactly  upright  by  the 
backstays  aft,  and  by  the  jib  and  foresail  forward,  the 
tape  on  the  jib  and  foresail  taking  the  place  of  stays 
or  ropes  used  for  that  purpose  in  ordinary  yachts, 
which  are  by  this  means  dispensed  with  in  models. 

Sail  and  mast-making  is  not  yet  done.  Another 
suit  of  masts,  spars,  and  sails,  of  exactly  two-thirds  the 
length,  breadth,  and  height  of  these,  must  be  made. 
It  is  called  the  storm  suit,  and  is  used  when  the  wind 
is  too  strong  for  the  first  suit.  Reefing  is  not  practicable 
in  a  cutter. 

Some  model  yachtsmen  have  three  or  four  suits  of 
sails,  &c. ;  I  find  two  sufficient,  because  I  don't  sail  a 
yacht  when  there  is  scarcely  a  breath,  and  I  don't  sail 
one  when  it  blows  a  hurricane,  and  so  I  find  two 
suits  enough.  Still  if  you  race  in  matches,  and  mean 
winning,  you  must  have  both  a  larger  and  smaller  suit, 

F  2 


84         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

for  you  can  never  tell  what  the  wind  will  be  on  the 
race  day,  and  must  be  prepared. 

Now  that  all  your  sails  are  complete,  paint  the  hull, 
and  varnish  the  deck  again  ;  tip  the  end  of  the  masts 
and  booms  the  colour  of  your  yacht,  it  looks  ship- 
shape. 

A  pole  of  pine  or  deal,  6  ft.  long,  with  a  double 
hook  at  one  end,  is  required  to  handle  and  turn  the 
ship.  Herewith  drawing  of  the  hook. 
One  side  is  to  push  the  ship  out,  and  the 
other  to  pull  it  in  or  turn  it. 

Lastly,  two  bags  are  needed,  each  to  contain  i  Ib. 
of  shot,  for  shifting  ballast  to  trim  the  ship,  if  you 
require  her  deeper  aft  or  forward, 


CHAPTER  VI. 


HOW  TO  SAIL  AND  STEER  A  MODEL  YACHT. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

HOW  TO   SAIL  AND   STEER  A   MODEL  YACHT. 

THE  action  of  the  wind  upon  the  sails  of  a  vessel 
presses  her  down  sideways  and  forwards,  this  causes 
the  lee  bow  (viz.  that  on  the  side  opposed  to  the  wind) 
to  be  more  immersed  than  the  weather  bow  (or  wind 
side  bow),  and  the  curve  of  the  bow  acting  like  a  rudder 
or  wedge,  forces  the  vessel  strongly  up  in  the  wind,  in 
exact  proportion  to  the  strength  of  the  wind.  This  is 
a  simple  mechanical  law  any  one  can  understand  after 
watching  a  model  yacht  for  five  minutes,  and  to 
counteract  while  utilizing  it,  I  build  a  model  yacht 
much  deeper  aft  than  forward,  make  the  bowsprit  very 
long,  the  jib  and  foresail  large,  and  the  mainsail  narrow 
at  the  head  and  slack  in  the  outer  leach  or  edge. 
These  arrangements,  properly  adjusted,  nearly  neutral- 
ize this  tendency  of  the  lee  bow  to  force  the  ship  to 


88         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

windward,  and  leave  only  just  enough,  so  that  by 
setting  the  sails  in  the  way  shown  later,  a  model 
yacht  steers  itself  perfectly.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  overdo  it,  otherwise  the  vessel  will  run  off  the 
wind,  and  not  steer  herself  at  all. 

The  part  which  the  increased  depth  of  keel  aft  plays 
in  steering  a  model  yacht  is  this  ;  as  the  sails  are  very 
evenly  balanced,  and  exert  little  more  force  at  the 
stern  than  at  the  bow  when  the  'vessel  is  upright  in  the 
water ;  yet  even  then  there  is  always  the  tendency 
more  or  less  to  come  up  in  the  wind,  and  as  the  bow 
is  not  so  deep  as  the  stern,  the  lateral  pressure  of  all 
the  sails  forces  the  vessel  sideways  (called  leeway), — 
she  makes  more  leeway  forward  than  aft,  and  thus 
this  particular  arrangement  helps  to  make  her  steer 
herself.  Necessarily,  when  the  wind  blows  strongly  it  is 
of  very  great  use,  and  enables  increased  length  of  bow- 
sprit to  be  dispensed  with  :  too  long  a  bowrsprit  is  a 
great  drawback,  it  dips  in  the  water,  and  is  difficult  to 
fasten  firmly. 


How  to  Sail  and  Steer  a  Model  Yacht.  89 

Again,  a  model  vessel  being  well  up  by  the  stem, 
and  deep  aft,  possesses  another  power  of  self-steering, 
viz.  when  the  wind  presses  her  down  forward  (when 
on  the  wind),  it  lightens  her  aft ;  this,  of  course, 
permits  her  to  gripe  more  to  windward,  as  she  holds 
more  water  forward  and  less  aft,  but  if  she  comes  up 
too  much,  so  as  to  relieve  the  mainsail  of  a  great  part 
of  its  pressure,  the  opposite  action  results,  the  bow  is 
lightened  and  the  stern  depressed  exactly  in  proportion, 
so  that  under  all  circumstances  the  vessel  possesses  a 
self-acting  power  to  steer  herself. 

Now,  as  just  shown,  a  model  yacht,  partly  by  the 
action  of  the  sails  (particularly  the  mainsail),  and 
partly  by  the  action  of  the  lee  bow,  will  always  keep 
close  to  the  wind, — in  fact,  too  close  ;  therefore,  to  make 
her  steer  herself,  the  jib  and  foresail  are  kept  in  a 
little  closer  (i.  e.  more  in  a  parallel  line  with  the  keel) 
than  the  mainsail.  So  if  the  vessel  comes  too  close 
to  the  wind,  first  the  outer  leach  of  the  mainsail  loses 
its  power  and  shakes,  and  if  this  does  not  suffice,  as  it 


90         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

should,  to  make  her  fall  off  again,  the  whole  mainsail 
will  shake,  and  as  the  jib  and  foresail  must  keep  full, 
the  ship  pays  off  till  the  mainsail  fills  again.  So  an 
equilibrium  is  attained,  and  in  a  steady  wind,  on  the 
sea  for  instance,  the  yacht  would  sail  on  in  the  same 
direction  as  if  on  rails,  till  the  sails  dropped  in  pieces. 

This  diagram  gives  the  disposition  of  the  booms  by 
means  of  their  respective  sheets.  To  make  a  yacht 
sail  full  and  by,  /.  e.  close  to  the  wind,  and  neither 
run  off  or  shake,  the  jib  is  nearly  parallel  to  the 
bowsprit,  the  foresail  less  so,  and  the  mainsail  least 


of  all,  and  clearly  shows  the  principle,  for  it  is  evident 
that  if  the  vessel  turned  more  towards  the  wind,  the 
mainsail  would  shake,  and  the  jib  and  foresail  keeping 
still  full,  would  turn  the  ship  back  to  her  course  again, 
viz.  "full  and  by."  On  the  other  hand,  she  cannot 


How  to  Sail  and  Steer  a  Model  Yacht.  91 

run  off  the  wind,  because  the  mainsail,  well  full  as  it 
must  be,  if  she  ran  off,  would  bring  her  up  again 
instantly. 

I  presume  every  intelligent  person  understands  that 
a  vessel  cannot  sail  with  her  head  to  the  wind  (all  the 
sails  must  shake,  and  she  would  go  a- stern),  and  few 
vessels  can  sail  nearer,  if  so  near,  as  at  an  angle  of  45° 
to  the  wind.  In  the  next  diagram  (p.  92),  will  be  shown 
the  way  to  sail  the  vessel  in  way  possible  direction,  and 
how  the  booms  must  be  disposed,  and  the  rudder  or 
rudders  and  ballast  bags  used  to  accomplish  it. 

The  wind  is  supposed  to  be  blowing  in  the  direction 
the  arrow  flies,  and  by  holding  this  diagram  with  the 
arrow  towards  the  point  the  wind  is  blowing  from,  your 
vessel  can  be  made  to  sail  in  every  direction  there 
indicated. 

No  vessel  can  head  nearer  towards  the  wind  shown 
by  the  arrow,  than  a  and  aa,  one  being  on  the  larboard, 
the  other  on  the  starboard  tack  (as  it  is  called),  /.  e. 
about  45°,  four  points  of  a  compass,  or  half  a  right  angle. 


Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 


The  vessel  at  a  is  therefore  sailing  close  to  the 
wind  on  the  larboard  tack,  with  the  sails  disposed  for 
that  purpose,  as  already  shown  (p.  90) ;  to  put  her  on 
the  other  tack,  simply  turn  her  in  the  direction  aa, 
head  to  wind  ;  the  sails,  being  self-acting,  will  go  over 


How  to  Sail  and  Steer  a  Model  Yacht.  93 

of  themselves  by  the  force  of  the  wind,  and  she  will 
continue  on  that  tack  till  stopped  or  turned. 

To  sail  her  as  at  b,  ease  off  the  mainsheet  till  the 
mainboom  is  at  an  angle  of  45°  (this  is  called  wind 
abeam)  to  the  keel  of  the  ship,  and  she  will  do  so ;  it 
is  seldom  necessary  to  touch  the  jib  or  foresheets,  leave 
those  sails  as  at  a.  To  sail  her  as  at  bb,  turn  her 
round,  head  to  wind,  and  the  sails  take  the  same  place 
on  the  other  side,  and  that  is  done. 

To  sail  as  at  c,  let  go  the  mainsheet  altogether  ;  if  the 
wind  is  not  too  strong,  she  will  do  so,  but  if  it  is  too 
strong,  a  light  rudder,  self-acting,  of  about  £  Ib.  weight 
must  be  made  and  used,  and  that  will  do  it.  Turn 
her  round  as  before,  head  to  wind,  if  you  wish  to  sail 
her  as  at  cc.  The  rule  is  simple  enough :  if  the  sails 
are  set,  and  propel  her  in  a  given  direction  on  the  one 
tack,  she  will,  if  turned,  sail  in  the  corresponding 
direction  on  the  other  tack. 

To  run  before  the  wind  at  d,  with  the  mainsheet  let 
go,  hook  on  the  heavy  rudder,  and  she  will  run  more 


94         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

or  less  true  before  the  wind,  according  to  the  perfection 
with  which  the  ship  is  built  and  the  rudder  balanced. 
The  cause  is  this  :  if  the  vessel  turns,  say  to  starboard, 
the  wind  necessarily  presses  her  over  to  larboard,  the 
self-acting  rudder  (being  exactly  upright  when  the  ship 
is  upright)  falls  over  to  larboard  also,  and  instantly 
puts  her  straight  again  ;  the  exact  opposite  takes  place 
should  she  turn  to  larboard,  and  so  she  imist  sail 
straight  before  the  wind. 

When  the  wind  is  very  light,  it  will  sometimes 
occur,  that  the  vessel  on  account  of  the  large  jib  and 
foresail,  will  run  off  the  wind  ;  if  so,  put  one  or  two 
of  the  bags  of  shot  inside  in  her  bows,  and  most 
likely  that  will  remedy  it ;  if  not,  change  the  angles  of 
the  jib  and  foresails,  i.  e.  let  the  jib  sheet  out  more, 
and  haul  the  foresheet  in  as  much  as  the  jib  was,  so 
that  you  would  then  be  steering  more  by  the  foresail 
than  by  the  jib.  This  is  sure  to  succeed. 

Before  all  these  manoeuvres  can  be  successfully  per- 
formed, some  little  practice  is  necessary,  of  course  ; 


How  to  Sail  and  Steer  a  Model  Yacht.  95 

ships,  like  everything  else,  have  little  ways  of  their 
own,  and  must  be  studied. 

The  topsail  must  always  be  kept  set,  and  needs  no 
touching  after  being  once  set,  for  though  of  no  great 
use  as  a  propelling  sail,  save  off  the  wind,  it  is  so  as  a 
steadying  sail,  being  so  lofty.  My  experience  has 
taught  me  never  to  dispense  with  it. 

To  prove  the  certainty  with  which  a  model  yacht 
must  sail  in  the  direction  intended,  you  can,  as  an 
experiment,  put  the  vessel's  head  in  the  water  in  any 
direction  you  please,  and  she  will  immediately  take 
the  course  for  which  the  sails  are  set,  no  matter  how 
you  put  her  in  the  water.  For  instance,  place  her  in 
the  water,  head  to  wind,  with  the  mainsheet  let  go, 
and  the  heavy  rudder  on,  i.  e.  to  sail  as  at  d  (p.  92),  and 
she  will  of  her  own  account  turn  round  and  run  before 
the  wind,  an  operation  which,  to  those  not  in  the 
secret,  seems  like  magic. 

Rigged  in  the  way  I  have  described,  with  every  part 
of  the  standing  and  running  rigging  being  made  fast 


96          Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

by  hooks  and  slides,  a  cutter  can  be  completely  un- 
rigged in  one  minute,  and  rigged  again  in  three 
minutes :  I  have  done  it  in  these  times  easily.  This 
is  a  very  great  advantage ;  there  are  no  knots  to  make, 
no  time  is  lost,  and  yet  the  rigging  is  as  strong  and 
as  perfect  as  possible,  and  never  fails  till  worn  out. 

I  hope  I  have  now  made  all  clear,  and  that  my 
readers  may  be  enabled  to  build  ships,  and  rig  them  to 
sail  with  as  much  satisfaction  to  themselves  as  mine 
are  to  me. 

Model  yachts  can  be  rigged  to  sail  and  steer  well,  as 
schooners,  luggers,  &c.,  and  I  have  vessels  rigged  in 
those  ways.  Should  this  treatise  meet  with  success,  I 
purpose  writing  a  second,  dealing  with  this  subject. 


MATERIALS   FOR   MODEL   SHIPS. 

BLOCK  of  wood :  white  pine  or  soft  deal  ;  at  almost 
any  wood-yard,  and  particularly  at  those  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  docks ;  cost  for  a  2-ft.  boat, 
2s.  6d.t  for  a  3- ft.,  about  105-. 

Masts,  booms,  &c.,  of  bamboo  canes,  at  florists, 
who  sell  cheap  bamboos  for  about  &/.  per  dozen  for 
gardening  purposes  ;  the  best  can  be  selected,  and  they 
will  serve  for  masts,  all  the  spars  of  a  2-ft.  boat,  and 
for  booms,  gaffs,  and  topmasts  of  3-ft.  boats.  Bamboos 
for  the  mast,  bowsprit,  and  mainboom  of  3-ft.  boats 
can  be  got  at  fishing-tackle  shops  and  toy  shops ;  both 
sell  cheap  bamboo  fishing-rods  at  about  %d.  each. 
They  can  be  easily  selected  of  the  required  thickness 
and  length.  Excellent  bamboo  canes  for  booms,  gaffs, 
and  topmasts  can  also  be  obtained  at  umbrella  shops 

G 


98         Model  Yachts  and  Model  Yacht  Sailing. 

and  stick  shops,  but  they  cost  more — id.,  zd.t  or 
and  even  6d.  each. 

Twine,  white  line,  &c.,  for  standing  and  running 
rigging,  can  be  had  at  fishing-tackle  or  cord  and  twine 
shops. 

Calico  and  tape  at  any  linendrapers. 

Lead  at  any  plumber's  shop,  20*.  or  ^d.  per  Ib. 

Paint  and  copal  at  any  oilman's.  Paint  6d  or  %d. 
per  Ib.  Copal  varnish  about  is.  per  pint ;  ^d.  worth 
is  enough  for  a  3-ft.  boat 

Brass  and  copper  wire  at  most  ironmongers,  as  also 
screw-eyes  of  any  size.  If  the  two  former  cannot  be 
readily  obtained,  Messrs.  Jackson  and  Sons,  17,  Sun 
Street,  Finsbury,  keep  every  size  in  brass  and  copper 
wire,  and  every  thickness  in  brass  and  copper  sheets ; 
all  these  are  sold  by  weight. 

All  sizes  of  rings  can  be  had  at  fishing-tackle  shops. 
id  or  2.d.  per  dozen. 

Ferrules  or  bands  for  tipping  the  ends  of  spars  to 
prevent  them  splitting,  can  be  got  at  fishing-tackle 


Mater ia  Is  for  Model  Ships .  99 

shops,  and  the  amateur  builder  can  file  off  any  length 
required  ;  they  are  very  cheap.  For  small  bands,  pipe 
mounts  are  excellent,  very  light  and  thin,  and  easily 
cut  to  any  length.  Most  tobacconists  keep  them  in  all 
sizes,  id  or  2ct.  each. 

If  the  boat  builder  cannot  get  or  make  bands,  lash 
or  bind  the  ends  of  the  spars  neatly  and  strongly  with 
good  white  thread,  and  then  paint  it  well  with  copal. 
It  will  answer  every  purpose,  but  does  not  look  so 
neat  and  trim. 

Lastly,  slides  can  be  made  of  any  hard  wood  as  well 
as  of  bone,  and  the  requisite  holes  bored  with  a  brad- 
awl, and  then  seared  with  a  red-hot  skewer. 


G  2 


GLOSSARY. 


ABAFT,  i 

AFT       J  towards  the  stern- 

AMIDSHIPS,  middle  of  a  ship  or  anything. 

BACKSTAY,  ropes  which  support  the  mast 
sideways  and  backwards. 

BEAM,  breadth  of  a  vessel,  also  the  sup- 
port of  the  deck. 

BOARD,  the  distance  sailed  on  one  tack. 

BOBSTAY,  the  rope  that  keeps  the  bow- 
sprit down ;  reaches  from  end  of 
bowsprit  to  cutwater. 

BOOM,  any  spar  used  to  extend  the  foot 
of  a  sail. 

Bow,  front  part  of  a  vessel. 

BOWSPRIT,  spar  projecting  in  front  of  a 
vessel  to  set  the  jibs  on. 

BULWARKS,  the  wooden  railings  round 
the  deck  of  a  ship. 

CHOCK,  piece  of  wood  to  hold  anything 
firmly. 

CLOSE,  a  vessel  being  as  near  the  direction 
of  the  wind  as  she  can  go  without 
shaking. 

COUNTER,  the  projection  of  the  stern. 

CUTWATER,  the  sharp  part  of  the  bow. 

DECK,  the  covering  of  the  ship  to  keep 
the  water  out,  &c. 

DRAW,  a  ship  draws  so  much  water,  i.e.  it 
is  so  many  feet  in  the  water. 

ENTRANCE,  the  forward  part  of  the 
bottom  of  a  vessel,  tapered  off  to  the 
cutwater,  so  as  to  cleave  the  water. 

FALL  OFF,  when  a  vessel  turns  from  the 
direction  of  the  wind. 


FOOT,  bottom  of  a  mast  or  sail. 

FORE  AND  AFT,  any  sail  which  does  not 

cross  the  mast. 

FORESAIL,  sail  in  forepart  of  a  ship. 
FORWARD,  fore  part  of  a  ship. 
FULL,  when  the  sails  are  distended  by 

the  wind. 
FULL  AND  BY,  close  to   the  wind  yet 

not  shaking.     See  CLOSE. 
GAFF,  the  spar  which  supports  the  head 

of  a  fore  and  aft  sail. 
GRUMMET,  a  ring  made  of  rope. 
GUDGEON,  a    sort    of   eye-bolt    for  the 

rudder  to  work  on. 
GUNWALE,  top  of  the  side  of  a  ship  on 

which  the  deck  is  fastened. 
GUY,  rope  to  keep  and  secure  the  bow- 
sprit, &c.,  laterally. 

HALYARDS,  ropes  used  to  hoist  the  sails. 
HATCHWAY,  openings  in  the  deck  of  a  ship. 
HEAD,  top  of  a  mast  or  sail. 
HOIST,  height  a  sail  is  pulled  up. 
HOLD,  the  inside  of  a  ship. 
HORSE,  long  bars  of  iron  on  which  the 

sheets  of  sails  work. 
HULL,  body  of  a  ship. 
JAWS,  any  arrangement  to  secure  a  gaff 

or  boom  to  a  mast,  and  allow  it  to 

swing  from  side  to  side,  &c. 
JlB,  a  three-cornered  sail  in  front  of  a  ship. 
KEEL,  the  centre  of  the  bottom  of  a  ship. 
LACED,  tied  in  a  certain  way. 
LARBOARD,  left. 
LEACH,  edge  of  a  sail,  generally  the  side. 


Glossary. 


101 


LEE,  side  of  a  vessel  farthest  from  that  | 

from  which  the  wind  blows. 
LEE-WAY,  the  side-way  motion  of  a  ship 
caused  by  the  side  pressure  of  the  j 
wind. 

LUFF,  to  go  closer  to  the  wind. 
LUFF  (of  a  sail),  edge  of  a  sail  nearest 

the  wind. 
MAIN-HALYARDS,    ropes    to    hoist   the 

mainsail. 

MAINMAST,  the  lower  mast  in  a  cutter. 
MAINSHEET,  the  rope  or  gear  to  secure 
and  regulate  the  after  lower  corner  of 
the  mainsail. 

NEAR,  same  as  close.    See  CLOSE. 
OFF.    See  FALL  OFF. 
OVERALL,  from  stem  to  stern. 
PAY  OFF.    See  FALL  OFF. 
PEAK,  the  angular  head  of  the  mainsail. 
PEAK-HALYARDS,    ropes    to    hoist    the 

outer  end  of  the  gaff. 
QUARTERS,  both  sides  of  a  ship  close  to 

the  stern. 
REACHING,  sailing  with  the  wind  abeam 

or  nearly  so. 
REEFING,  reducing  the    sails    by  tying 

them  up  smaller. 

RUN,  the  after  part  of  the  bottom  of  a 
vessel,  tapered  off  to  the  stern-post, 
so  as  to  leave  the  water  freely. 
RUNNING,  sailing  with  the  wind  astern 
or  nearly  so. 


RUNNING    GEAR,    any   ropes    used   for 

hoisting  the  sails  or  yards. 
SELVEDGE,  the  even  edge  of  linen,  canvas, 

&c. 
SHAKE,  when    the   sails    shake    in    the 

wind  and  so  lose  their  power. 
SHEER,  slope  of  a  vessel  downwards  to 

midships  from  stem  and  stern. 
SHEET,  robes  used  to  secure  and  regulate 

lower  after  corner  of  sails. 
STANDING   GEAR,   any  fixed  ropes,    as 

backstays,  &c. 
STARBOARD,  right  side. 
STAY,  ropes  used  to  support  the  masts 

fonvard  only. 
STEM.    See  CUTWATER. 
STEP,  socket  for  heel  of  mast,  &c. 
STERN,  the  after  part  of  a  vessel. 
STERN-POST,  end  of  keel  and  run,  upon 

which  the  rudder  is  fixed. 
TACK,  fonvard  lower  corner  of  a  sail. 
TACK,  to  make  a  zigzag  course  so  as  to 

get  to  windward. 
TAUT,  tight. 

TOPMAST,  the  second  mast  from  the  deck. 
WATERLINE,  line  of  the  water  on  the 

side,  &c.,  of   a  ship,   showing  how 

deep  she  is  in  the  water. 
WEATHER,  side  of  a  vessel,  &c.,  nearest 

the  wind. 

WINDWARD,  in  direction   of  the  wind, 
the  side  from  which  the  wind  blows. 


CONTESTS  ON  THE  OPEN  SEA  BETWEEN 

CUTTERS  "GOLDEN  CREST"  AND 

"STORM  ALONG." 

ist  Trial.  Strong  breeze,  rough  sea,  storm  sails,  foot  of  sails 
laced  to  booms  ;  i  ^  miles  on  each  tack.  "  Storm  Along  "  beat 
on  each  tack,  about  50  yds.  to  windward. 

2nd  Trial.  Large  suits,  light  breeze  and  sea;  ij  miles  on 
each  tack.  "  Storm  Along,"  all  sails  laced  to  booms  ;  "  Golden 
Crest,"  mainsail  free  and  jib  laced.  "  Storm  Along  "  led  a  few 
yards  once  ;  "  Golden  Crest "  beat,  20  yds.  in  2  boards. 

yd  Trial.  Sails  as  in  2nd  Trial,  moderate  breeze  and  sea ; 
2  boards,  i£  miles  each.  "  Golden  Crest  "  beat,  20  yds.  on  each. 

t\th  Trial.  Sails  as  above,  moderate  breeze  and  sea,  inter- 
changed sails.  "  Storm  Along "  beat,  \  mile  on  each  tack  of 
i  mile  length  each. 

5//z  Trial.  Moderate  breeze  and  sea,  "  Storm  Along  "  own 
sails  all  free  from  booms,  and  "  Golden  Crest "  all  laced  ;  2 
boards  of  i  mile  each.  "  Storm  Along "  beat,  J  mile  to  wind- 
ward, i  last  board  of  i  mile  ;  "  Golden  Crest/'  all  sails  free 
from  booms,  i.  e.  both  vessels  own  sails  and  alike.  "  Storm 
Along"  beat,  \  mile  dead  to  windward. 

6tk  Trial.  Gentle  breeze  and  sea,  full  suits  and  each  their 
own.  "  Storm  Along "  beat,  40  yds.  to  windward  in  £  mile 
board.  "Golden  Crest"  headreached  a  little,  this  wind  and 
sea  showing  her  best  points. 


TIME    TABLE    OF   TWO    MODEL    YACHT 
REGATTAS. 


4-ft.  cutters.  Wind  strong,  E.  by  S.  4  vessels  in  each  heat. 
Course  once  up  and  down  pond,  259  yds.  long,  30  yds.  wide  ; 
length  of  pond  being  E.  and  W. 


Start. 

Run. 

Beat  back. 

Time. 

H.     M. 

H.      M. 

H.      M. 

M. 

ist    Heat  .... 

4      H 

4     i6| 

4     234 

9i 

2nd      „     .     .     .     . 

4     33 

4     36 

4     42f 

9i 

3rd        „     .     .     .     . 

4     50 

4     53 

4     59 

9 

Loser's  Heat  .     .     . 

5       4 

5       7 

5     Hi 

10* 

Final         „     .     .     . 

5     20 

5     23i 

5     3i 

II 

In  this  race,  final  heat,  the  three  first  winners  fouled,  and  the 
winner  of  loser's  heat  won. 


3-ft.  cutters.     Wind  strong,  W.  by  S.     Course  as  above. 


Start. 

Run. 

Beat  back. 

Time. 

ist  Heat  .... 
2nd  „  .  .  .  . 

H.  M.  S. 
5  14  50 
$  1  "?  3O 

H.     M.       S. 

5     18     30 
"?      3Q       8 

H.  M.  S. 

5  26  23 
i;  46  40 

M.      S. 
II      33 
II       IO 

3rd  „  .  .  .  . 
Loser's  Heat  .  .  . 
Final  „  .  .  . 

6  3  5 
6  23  5 
6  43  52 

6       6    40 
6     26     30 
6    47     25 

6  16  5 
6  36  10 
6  54  50 

13      o 

13      5 
10    58 

This  last  race  won  by  6  in.  only. 

By  examining  above  table,  it  appears  to  novices  almost  in- 
credible that  such  precision  can  be  attained  in  model  yacht 
sailing.  All  the  heats  were  won  by  a  few  feet  only,  and  some 
by  inches. 


BEST   WATERS    FOR   SAILING    MODEL   YACHTS. 

THE  best  ponds  for  sailing  model  yachts  in  London  are  :  (i) 
Victoria  Park  Pond,  but  only  when  the  wind  is  E.  or  W.  (2) 
Round  Pond,  Kensington,  in  any  winds,  all  sides  of  this  pond 
being  clear  of  trees.  (3)  Serpentine,  in  any  wind. 

Hampstead  and  Highgate  ponds  are  also  available,  but  have 
muddy  edges,  and  seldom  a  true  wind  on  account  of  the  high 
banks. 

There  are  also  good  ponds  on  Clapham  Common  and 
Peckham  Rye. 


GILBERT   AND   RIVINGTON,    PRINTERS,    ST.    JOHN'S   SQUARE,    LONDON. 


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LIST  OF  SUBJECTS. 


I.  The  Miller  of  Hillbrook  ;    a  Rural  Tale. 


'Girl. 
2.  Tom  Trueman,  a  Sailor  in  a  Merchantman. 

8.  Adventures      of      Two      Orphans     in 


3.  Michael    Hale     and     his      Family     in 


4.  John  Armstrong,  the  Soldier. 


5.  Joseph  Rudge,  the  Australian  Shepherd.  Times. 

IT.  The  Tenants  of  Sunnyside  Farm. 

6.  Life  Underground  ;  or,  Dick,  the  Colliery 


Boy. 


7.  Life  on  the  Coast ;  or,  the  Little  Fisher 


London. 


9.  Early  Days  on  Board  a  Man-of-War. 


io.  Walter  the  Foundling  ;  a  Tale  of  Olden 


12.   Holm  wood  ;  or  the  New  Zealand  Settler, 


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1 1 


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guidance  is  safely  withdrawn. 

IV.  The  number  and  variety  of  the  copies  secure  attention,  and  prevent  the  pupils  copying  their 

own  writing,  as  in  books  with  single  head-lines. 
V.     The  system  insures  the  progress  of  the  learner,  and  greatly  lightens  the  labours  of  the  teacher. 


A  SHORT  AND  CERTAIN  ROAD  TO  A  GOOD  HAND- 
WRITING. LARGE  POST.  16  Nos.,  6d.  each.  Being  a  Series  of  SIXTEEN  COPY  BOOKS, 
by  GEORGE  DARNELL,  the  first  ten  of  which  have  on  every  alternate  line  appropriate  and 
carefully  written  copies  in  Pencil-coloured  Ink,  to  be  first  written  over  and  then  imitated,  the 
remaining  numbers  having  Black  Head-lines  for  imitation  only,  THE  WHOLE  GRADUALLY 

ADVANCING   FROM   A  SIMPLE  STROKE  TO  A   SUPERIOR  SMALL   HAND. 

No. 

7.  Text,  Round,  and  Small. 

8,  9,  10.     Text,  Round,  Small,  and  Figures. 
II,  12.     Round,  Small,  and  Figures. 

13,  14.     Round  and  Small. 
15,  16.     Small  Hand. 


No, 
i. 

2. 

3. 
6. 


Elementary  (Strokes,  &c.). 
Single  Letters. 

4.     Large  Text  (Short  Words). 
Text,  Large  Text,  and  Figures. 
Round  Text,  Capitals  and  Figures. 


A   SURE   GUIDE   TO   A   GOOD    HANDWRITING.      A 


Series    of    TWENTY-FOUR    COPY    BOOKS,    on    a    similar    plan. 
24  Nos.,  3</.  each,  green  covers  ;  Or  on  a  superior  paper,  marble  covers, 


Oblong    Foolscap. 
.  each. 


No. 
i. 

2. 

3. 

6.' 

7- 
8. 


Elementary  (Strokes,  &c.). 
Single  Letters. 

4.     Large  Text  (Short  Words). 
Text,  Large  Text,  and  Figures. 
Text,  Round,  and  Capitals. 
Round,  Small,  and  Figures. 
Text,  Round,  and  Small 


No. 

9.     Round,  Small,  and  Figures. 
10,  II.     Round  and  Small. 
12,  13,  15.     Round,  Small,  and  Figures. 
14.     Round  and  Small. 
16  to  20.     Small  Hand. 
21.     Ornamental  Hands. 
22  to  24.     Ladies'  Angular  Writing. 


EDUCATIONAL   WORKS 


DARNELL'S  COPY  BOOKS.— Continued. 


UNIVERSAL    COPY    BOOKS. 

Books,  on  the  same  Plan.     Fcap.  410. ,  2d.  each. 


A    Series  of  Sixteen    Copy 


No. 

1.  Elementary. 

2.  Single  and  Double  Letters. 

3.  4.     Large  Text  (Short  Words). 

5.  Text,  Large  Text,  and  Figures. 

6.  Text,  Round,  Capitals,  and  Figures. 


No. 

7.  Text,  Round,  and  Small. 

8,  9,  10.     Text,  Round,  Small,  and  Figures. 
n,  12.     Round,  Small,  and  Figures. 

13,  14.     Round  and  Small. 
15,  1 6.     Small  Hand. 


"For  teaching  writing  I  would  recommend  the  use  of  Darnell's  Copy  Books.  I  HAVE  NOTICED  A  MARKED  IMPROVE- 
MENT WHEREVER  THKV  HAVE  BEEN  USED." — Report  of  Mr.  Maye  (National  Society's  Organiser  of  Schools)  to  the 
Worcester  Diocesan  Board  of  Education. 

"  As  to  the  necessity  of  some  one  proposing  a  new  way  to  teach  %vriting,  I  do  not  think  it  is  needed.  Let  a  London 
Clerk  inspect  one  of  Mr.  Darnell's  Copy  Books  (I  believe  they  are  most  generally  in  use  in  our  schools),  and  I  think  he 
will  say  that,  with  a  moderate  amount  of  care  on  the  part  of  the  teacher,  THE  RESULT  MUST  BE  A  LEGIBLE,  CLEAR 
HAND-WRITING." — An  Essex  Schoolmaster;  National  Society's  Monthly  Paper. 

The  Times  says  :  "  This  gentleman  has  conferred  a  great  benefit,  not  only  on  the  rising  generation,  but  on  those  who 
will  hereafter  form  the  rising  generation.  He  has  composed  a  series  of  Elementary  Treatises,  in  which  the  comprehen- 
sion of  the  art  or  science  taught  is  so  much  facilitated  that  children  of  the  dullest  capacities  are  made  capable  of 
comprehending  what  is  required  of  them,  whilst  teachers  are  relieved  from  the  difficulties  of  imparting  knowledge  in  the 
desultory  and  incomprehensible  manner  too  often  practised." 


HISTORY. 
BRITANNIA;  A  Collection  of  the  Principal  Passages  in  Latin 

Authors  that  refer  to  this  Island,  with  Vocabulary  and  Notes.  By  T.  S.  CAYZER.  Illustrated 
with  a  Map  and  29  Woodcuts.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth,  3^.  6d. 

"  A  very  useful  book." — School  Board  Chronicle. 

"  The  task  is  admirably  done." — School  Guardian. 

"  A  most  attractive  Latin  reading  book,  and  as  useful  as  it  is  attractive." — Edinburgh  Daily  Review. 

TRUE    STORIES    FROM    ANCIENT    HISTORY,    Chro- 

nologically  arranged  from  the  Creation  of  the  World  to  the  Death  of  Charlemagne.  Twelfth 
Edition.  I2mo.,  5*.  cloth. 

BATTLE  FIELDS;  a  graphic  Guide  to  the  Places  described 

in  the  History  of  England  as  the  Scenes  of  such  Events  ;  with  the  situation  of  the  principal 
Naval  Engagements  fought  on  the  Coast.  By  Mr.  WAUTHIER,  Geographer.  On  a  Large 
Sheet,  3*.  6d. ;  or  on  a  Roller,  and  Varnished,  7.?.  6d. 

MRS.    TRIMMER'S    CONCISE    HISTORY    OF     ENG- 

LAND.  Revised  and  brought  down  to  the  Present  Time.  By  Mrs.  MILNER.  With  Portraits 
of  the  Sovereigns.  $s.  cloth. 


RHYMES    OF    ROYALTY;    the    History    of    England    in 

Verse  from  the  Norman  Conquest  to  the  Reign  of  Victoria ;  with  a  Summary  of  the  Leading 
Events  in  each  Reign,     Fcap.  8vo.,  2s.  cloth. 


PUBLISHED  B  Y  GRIFFITH  AND  PARK  AN.  \  3 


GEOGRAPHY. 

Cheap  Re- Issue  of 

PICTORIAL   GEOGRAPHY,  for  the  Instruction  of  Children. 

Illustrates  at  a  glance  the  Various  Geographical  Terms  in  such  a  manner  as  to  at  once  impart 
clear  and  definite  ideas  respecting  them.  On  a  Sheet  30  by  22  inches,  Printed  in  Colours, 
is.  6d.  ;  Mounted  on  Rollers  and  Varnished,  3^.  6d. 

"  A  pretty  and  picturesque  wall  chart  ....  Forms  an  excellent  introduction  to  the  Study  of  Maps." — • 

School  Board  Chronicle. 

Will  be  a  great  help  to  children  learning  Geography.    — Scholastic  World. 
"  A  valuable  and  attractive  help  to  the  teaching  of  the  Elements  of  Geography." — Nature. 
"  Admirably  suited  for  teaching  the  meaning  of  common  Geographical  Terms." — School  Guardian. 

THE   FIRST  BOOK  OF   GEOGRAPHY;  specially  adapted 

as  a  Text-Book  for  Beginners.    By  HUGO  REID.    Fourth  Edition,  Revised.    i8mo.,  sewed,  is. 
"  One  of  the  most  sensible  little  books  on  the  subject  of  Geography  we  have  met  with." — Educational  Times. 

GAULTIER'S      FAMILIAR      GEOGRAPHY.        With     a 

Concise  Treatise  on  the  Artificial  Sphere,  and  Two  coloured  Maps,  illustrative  of  the  principal 
Geographical  Terms.  Sixteenth  Edition.  i6mo.,  cloth,  3-r. 

BUTLER'S  OUTLINE  MAPS,  AND  KEY,  or  Geographical 

and  Biographical  Exercises  ;  With  a  Set  of  Coloured  Outline  Maps,  designed  for  the  use  of 
Young  Persons.  By  the  late  WILLIAM  BUTLER.  Enlarged  by  the  Author's  Son,  J.  O. 
BUTLER.  Thirty-sixth  Edition,  Revised  to  date.  41-. 

TABULAR  VIEWS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHY  AND 

SACRED  HISTORY  OF  PALESTINE,  AND  OF  THE  TRAVELS  OF  ST.  PAUL. 
Intended  for  Pupil  Teachers,  and  others  engaged  in  Class  Teaching.  By  A.  T.  WHITE. 
Oblong  8vo.,  is.  sewed. 


GRAMMAR,    &c. 
A  COMPENDIOUS  GRAMMAR  AND  PHILOLOGICAL 

HANDBOOK  OF  THE  ENGLISH  LANGUAGE,  for  the  Use  of  Schools  and  Candidates 
for  the  Army  and  Civil  Service  Examinations.  By  JOHN  GEORGE  COLQUHOUN,  Esq., 
Barrister-at-Law.  Fcap.  8vo.,  cloth,  2s.  6d. 

DARNELL,    G.      GRAMMAR    MADE    INTELLIGIBLE 

TO  CHILDREN.  Being  a  Series  of  Short  and  Simple  Rules,  with  ample  Explanations  of 
Every  Difficulty,  and  copious  Exercises  for  Parsing ;  in  Language  adapted  to  the  comprehension 
of  very  young  Students.  New  and  Revised  Edition.  Cloth,  is. 

DARNELL,  G.   INTRODUCTION  TO  ENGLISH  GRAM- 

MAR.     Price  3^.     Being  the  first  32  pages  of  "  Grammar  made  Intelligible." 

DARNELL,  T.     PARSING  SIMPLIFIED;  an  Introduction 

and  Companion  to  all  Grammars  ;  consisting  of  Short  and  Easy  Rules,  with  Parsing  Lessons 
to  each.  Fourth  Edition.  •  Cloth,  is. 


i4  EDUCATIONAL    WORKS 


GRAMMAR,  &c.— Continued. 

LOVECHILDS,     MRS.        THE     CHILD'S     GRAMMAR. 

50th  Edition,     l8mo.,  cloth,  <)d. 

A   WORD    TO  THE    WISE  ;    or,    Hints    on     the     Current 

Improprieties  of  Expression  in  Writing  and   Speaking.     By  PARRY  GWYNNE.    Thirteenth 
Thousand.     l8mo.,  sewed  6d.,  or  cloth,  gilt  edges,  is. 
"  All  who  wish  to  mind  their  p's  and  g's  should  consult  this  little  volume." — Gentleman's  Magazine. 

HARRY  HAWKINS'S   H-BOOK  ;    showing  how  he   learned 

to  aspirate  his  H's-  Frontispiece  by  H.  Weir.  Third  Edition.  Super  royal  i6mo., 
sewed,  6d. 

"  No  family  or  schoolroom  within,  or  indeed  beyond  the  sound  of  Bow  bells,  should  be  without  this  merry  manual." 

— Art  Journal. 

THE    PRINCE    OF  WALES'S  PRIMER.     With  340  IIlus- 

trations  by  J.  Gilbert.     New  Edition.     Sewed,  6d. 

DARNELL,    G.      SHORT   AND    CERTAIN    ROAD    TO 

READING.  Being  a  Series  of  EASY  LESSONS  in  which  the  Alphabet  is  so  divided  as  to 
enable  the  Child  to  read  many  Pages  of  Familiar  Phrases  before  he  has  learned  half  the 
letters.  Cloth,  (>d.  ;  or  in  4  parts,  paper  covers,  \\d.  each. 

SHEET  LESSONS,  being  Extracts  from  the  above,  printed  in 

very  large  bold  type.     Price,  for  the  set  of  Six  Sheets,  6d.  ;  or,  neatly  mounted  on  boards,  3*. 


ARITHMETIC,    ALGEBRA,    &    GEOMETRY. 
DARNELL,  G.     ARITHMETIC  MADE  INTELLIGIBLE 

TO  CHILDREN.  Being  a  Series  of  GRADUALLY  ADVANCING  EXERCISES,  intended  to 
employ  the  Reason  rather  than  the  Memory  of  the  Pupil ;  with  ample  Explanations  of  every 
Difficulty,  in  Language  adapted  to  the  comprehension  of  very  young  Students.  Cloth,  is.  6d. 

*»*  This  work  may  be  had  in  Three  Parts  : — Part  I.,  price  6d.     Part  II.,  price  qd.     Part  III., 
price  6d.     A  KEY  to  Parts  II.  and  III.,  price  is.     (Part  I.  does  not  require  a  Key.) 

CAYZER,  T.  S.       ONE  THOUSAND  ARITHMETICAL 

TESTS;  or,  THE  EXAMINER'S  ASSISTANT.  Specially  adapted,  by  a  novel  arrange- 
ment of  the  subject,  for  Examination  Purposes,  but  also  suited  for  general  use  in  Schools.  By 
T.  S.  CAYZER,  Head  Master  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  Hospital,  Bristol.  Eleventh  Thousand. 
With  a  complete  set  of  Examples  and  Models  of  Work.  Cloth,  is.  6d. 

All  the  operations  of  Arithmetic  are  presented  under  Forty  Heads,  and  on  opening  at  any  one  of 
the  examination  papers,  a  complete  set  of  examples  appears,  carefully  graduated. 

KEY  WITH   SOLUTIONS   OF  ALL   THE   EXAMPLES 

IN  THE  ONE  THOUSAND  ARITHMETICAL  TESTS.  By  THOMAS  S.  CAYZER.  Price 
4J.  6d.  cloth. 

THE  ANSWERS  only,  price  is.  6d.  cloth. 


PUBLISHED  BY  GRIFFITH  AND  FARRAN.  15 


ARITHMETIC,   ALGEBRA,    AND  GEOMETRY.— Continued 
ONE  THOUSAND  ALGEBRAICAL  TESTS;   on  the  same 

Plan.     By  THOMAS  S.  CAYZER.     Third  Edition.     8vo.,  cloth,  2s.  6d. 

ANSWERS  TO  THE  ALGEBRAICAL  TESTS,  2s.  6ct.  cloth. 
THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF  THE  METRIC  SYSTEM 

OF  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES.  By  Professor  LEONE  LEVI,  F.S.A.,  F.S.S.  Third 
Edition.  Sewed,  is. 

THE    ESSENTIALS    OF    GEOMETRY,    PLANE   AND 

SOLID,  as  Taught  in  Germany  and  France.  For  Students  preparing  for  Examination, 
Cadets  in  Naval  and  Military  Schools,  Technical  Classes,  &c.  By  j.  R.  MORELL,  formerly 
one  of  Her  Majesty's  Inspectors  of  Schools.  With  numerous  Diagrams.  Cloth,  2j. 


ELEMENTARY    FRENCH    AND    GERMAN    WORKS. 
LE    BABILLARD;   an   Amusing    Introduction   to   the   French 

Language.     By  a  FRENCH  LADY.     Ninth  Edition.     16  Plates.     Cloth,  2s. 

LES  JEUNES  NARRATEURS;  ou,  Petits   Contes   Moraux. 

With  a  Key  to  the  Difficult  Words  and  Phrases.     Third  Edition.     l8mo.,  cloth,  2s. 
"  Written  in  pure  and  easy  French." — Morning  Post. 

THE   PICTORIAL   FRENCH   GRAMMAR.      For  the  Use 

of  Children.     Forming  a  most  Pleasant  and  Easy  Introduction  to  the  Language.      By  MARIN 
DE  LA  VOYE.     With  80  Illustrations.     Fcap.  8vo.,  cloth,  is.  6d. 

The  School  Board  Chronicle  says  of  this  New  Edition  : — "  An  introductory  French  book,  which  is  at  the  same  time  a 
child's  picture  book,  full  of  woodcuts  to  tempt  the  infant's  attention  to  the  text.  There  are  digs,  birds,  boats,  animals, 
or  children  on  almost  every  page,  generally  with  a  French  and  English  inscription  under  them.  .  . 

"  Whoever  wishes  to  introduce  his  pupils  to  French  at  a  very  tender  age,  would  do  well  u  begin  with  the  '  Pictorial 
Grammar." " 

FRENCH    VERBS,  being  a  help  to  those  who  are   Studying 

the  French  Language,  in  which  the  Irregular  Verbs  are  fully  conjugated  with  their  respective 
auxiliaries.     By  Louis  AMELIE  ALBIGES.     Boards,  2s. 

ROWBOTHAM'S  NEW  AND  EASY  METHOD  OF 

LEARNING  THE  FRENCH  GENDERS.     New  Edition,  sewed,  (xt. 

BELLENGER'S  FRENCH  WORD  AND  PHRASE  BOOK  ; 

containing  a  Select  Vocabulary  and  Dialogues.     New  Edition.     Cloth  limp,  is. 

DER  SCHWATZER;   or,  The  Prattler.     An  Amusing   Intro- 

duction  to  the  German  Language.     Sixteen  Illustrations.     Cloth,  2s. 


1 6  WORKS  PUBLISHED  BY  GRIFFITH  AND  FARRAN. 


NEEDLEWORK,    &c.,     AS     REQUIRED     BY    THE     NEW 
EDUCATIONAL    CODE. 

New  Work  by  the  author  of  "  Plain  Needlework  "  and  "  Plain  Knitting" 

PLAIN     CUTTING    OUT    FOR    STANDARDS    IV.,   V., 

and  VI.,  as  now  required  by  the  Government  Educational  Department.  By  the  EXAMINER  OF 
NEEDLEWORK  TO  THE  SCHOOL  BOARD  FOR  LONDON.  Adapted  to  the  Principles  of 
Elementary  Geometry.  Sewed  u. 

A    SET    OF    THE    DIAGRAMS    REFERRED    TO     IN 

the  Book  may  be  had  separately,  printed  on  stout  paper  and  inclosed  in  an  envelope,  u. 

"An  invaluable  little  book  ;  has  mastered  the  most  difficult  branch  in  the  needle-work  department." — Queen. 
"A  great  aid    ...    of  great  service  to  all  instructors,  whether  in  select  ladies' seminaries,  board  schools,  large 
families,  or  home  schoolrooms." — Bazaar. 

"  Full  of  valuable  information." — Scholastic  World. 

By  the  same  Author. 

PLAIN  NEEDLEWORK  ARRANGED  IN  SIX  STAND- 

ARDS,  with  Hints  for  the  Management  of  Classes,  and  Appendix  on  Simultaneous  Teaching. 
Fifteenth  Thousand.  Sewed  6d. 

PLAIN     KNITTING     AND    MENDING,     ARRANGED 

in  Six  Standards,  with  Diagrams.     Eighth  Thousand.     Sewed,  6</. 

*»*   These  works  are  recommended  in  the  published  Code  of  the  Educational  Department. 

NEEDLEWORK    DEMONSTRATION    SHEETS. 

Messrs.  GRIFFITH  &  FARRAN  have  the  pleasure  to  announce  that  they  have  a  series  of  the 
above,  which  exhibit  certain  Stitches  in  elementary  Needlework,  in  preparation  for  use  in  classes. 
They  are  designed  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Examiner  of  Needlework  for  the  School 
Board  for  London,  author  of  the  very  popular  manuals  on  the  subject  named  above.  The  size  of 
the  Sheets  will  be  about  30  x  22  inches,  and  the  following  are  nearly  ready  : — 

Alphabets  for  Marking     6  Sheets. 

True  Marking  Stitch         I 

Stocking  Web  Stitch        I 

Grafting  Stocking  Material      I 

Herring  Bone     I 

Fisherman's  Stitch  for  Braiding  Nets     I 

Other  Stitches  will  be  added  of  which  further  particulars  will  be  announced. 

DEMONSTRATION    FRAMES   for  CLASS  TEACHING, 

With  Special  Needles  and  Cord  to  use  with  the  Frames,  can  also  be  supplied. 

ARTIZAN     COOKERY   AND    HOW    TO    TEACH     IT. 

By  a  Pupil  of  the  National  Training  School  for  Cookery,  South  Kensington.     Sewed,  6d. 

"  VVhoever  wants  to  promote  a  knowledge  of  cheap  and  wholesome  cookery  among  the  poor  would  do  well  to  read 
this  little  book."— School  Board  Chronicle. 
"  A  really  practical  little  book." — Bookseller. 


GRIFFITH   AND    FARRAN, 
WEST  CORNER  OF  ST.  PAUL'S  CHURCHYARD,  LONDON. 


UCSB 


_  ii 


